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Lily (Lilium)
The lily is a herbaceous flowering plant of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae, known for its showy, often fragrant blooms. Lilies grow from bulbs and are prized in gardens and as cut flowers for their elegant, trumpet-shaped blossoms and rich symbolism. They have been cultivated for centuries and appear prominently in art, literature, and religious iconography. In the garden, lilies provide vertical accents and come in a wide range of colors. They can display pristine white flowers, soft pinks, golden yellow flowers, fiery oranges, deep reds, and even maroon hues so dark they appear nearly black. One color you won’t find is blue – there are no naturally blue flowers among true lilies. Lilies are also frequently used in bridal bouquets and decorations, making them a staple in many a wedding flowers guide thanks to their striking appearance and sweet fragrance. Garden lilies typically bloom in summer and, with proper care, return year after year as perennials.
🌱 Taxonomy and origin
Lilies are true lilies, meaning they belong to the genus Lilium. This genus contains roughly 80 to 100 species, distributed throughout the temperate Northern Hemisphere. Wild lily species are native across much of Europe, Asia, and North America. The greatest diversity is found in East Asia (particularly China, Japan, and the Himalayan region), which is considered a center of origin for many lily species. For example, the Madonna lily (Lilium candidum), with its iconic white blooms, is native to the Middle East and was cultivated in ancient civilizations, while the Tiger lily (Lilium lancifolium) hails from East Asia. Over time, lilies have been carried and cultivated worldwide.
In terms of classification, Lilium is part of the lily family (Liliaceae). True lilies are characterized by scaly underground bulbs and large, six-petaled (technically six-tepaled) flowers. Horticulturists often group garden lilies into divisions such as Asiatic, Oriental, Trumpet, Martagon, and others, based on their hybrid lineage and floral characteristics. Asiatic hybrids, for instance, derive from central and East Asian species and are known for early bloom and diverse colors, whereas Oriental hybrids descend from Japanese species and are known for their intense fragrance and later bloom time.
It’s important to note that many plants have “lily” in their common name but are not true lilies. For example, daylilies (Hemerocallis), peace lilies (Spathiphyllum), and calla lily (Zantedeschia) are entirely different plants belonging to other families. True lilies are only those in the genus Lilium. This distinction matters for gardeners, especially because care requirements and characteristics (like hardiness or toxicity) differ greatly among these plants.
🌸 Bloom time
Most lilies bloom in the summer, but the exact timing can vary by species and hybrid type. In general, lily bloom season starts in late spring and can extend into early fall if multiple varieties are grown. The earliest to flower are often the Asiatic lilies, which can begin blooming in late spring to early summer (around May or June in many regions). Asiatic hybrids provide a splash of color early in the season. Mid-season, usually by late June and July, trumpets and Aurelian hybrids (as well as some species lilies) take the stage with their large blooms. Later in the summer, Oriental lilies and Oriental hybrids (such as the famous ‘Stargazer’ lily) bloom, often in July or August, bringing exotic fragrance along with their flowers. By planting a mix of early, mid, and late-season lily types, gardeners can enjoy continuous lily blossoms for several months.
Each lily stem typically carries multiple flower buds. When in bloom, these buds open in succession over a period of days, prolonging the flowering display of each stem for 1-2 weeks. Individual lily flowers generally last a few days each on the plant. Deadheading (removing spent blooms) can help direct the plant’s energy back to the bulb rather than seed production, but it will not induce re-bloom in the same season since lilies usually have one flush of blooms per stem each year. Overall, expect most lilies to be at their peak in summer, making them a highlight of sunny seasonal gardens.
📏 Height and spread
Lilies are vertical growers that add height to plantings without taking up much horizontal space. Depending on the variety, lilies range in height from as short as about 1 foot (30 cm) to as tall as 6 feet (180 cm) or more. Dwarf and patio lily varieties (often Asiatic hybrids) stay on the shorter side (1-2 feet), making them suitable for containers or front borders. Typical garden lilies, like many Asiatic and Oriental hybrids, stand around 3 to 4 feet tall (90-120 cm) when in bloom. Some special hybrids often called “tree lilies” or giant Orientals can reach 5-6 feet or taller under ideal conditions, creating a dramatic presence in the garden.
In terms of spread, a lily plant (one bulb) does not spread outward in the same way as a shrub or groundcover. Each bulb generally produces one main stem (sometimes a large bulb can produce two stems), and the width of that stem’s foliage might be only a few inches across. Lilies tend to have a narrow footprint, the lance-shaped leaves grow alternately up the stem, sometimes fanning out to perhaps 6-12 inches wide at most. Thus, an individual lily doesn’t cover a wide area of ground. However, over several years, bulbs can multiply. A healthy bulb will form small offset bulbs (or, in some species, bulbils on the stem) that eventually grow into flowering size. As a result, a single planted lily can turn into a clump of multiple stems over time, roughly expanding the “patch” of lilies. Gardeners often plant lily bulbs about 8-12 inches apart to allow for this natural clump-forming and to ensure adequate air circulation.
Because they grow tall, some lilies with large flower heads may benefit from staking or support-especially in windy locations or if the stems are slender. Sturdier varieties (or those grown in sufficient sun) often stand upright on their own. The overall habit is upright and erect. When planning a garden, it’s common to place lilies in the middle or back of flower beds where their height can rise above shorter plants, while their lower portions might be hidden by bushier perennials, which also helps shade the lilies’ roots.
☀️ Light
Most lilies thrive in full sun to light partial shade. As a rule of thumb, lilies should receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day for robust growth and good flowering. In full sun, lilies tend to grow sturdy stems and produce abundant blooms. However, in very hot climates or intense afternoon sun, some varieties (like Oriental lilies) appreciate a bit of protection from the harshest sun to prevent their flowers from fading or scorching. In those cases, situating lilies where they get morning sun and a touch of afternoon shade can yield the best results.
Too much shade, on the other hand, will cause lilies to stretch and lean as they reach for light. In shade they often become spindly, with weaker stems and fewer or no blooms. A common gardening adage is that lilies like to have their “head in the sun and feet in the shade.” This means while the tops of the plants (the stems and flowers) should be in sun or bright light, it’s beneficial if the base of the plant and the soil around the bulb are kept cool. You can achieve this by mulching around the lilies or by planting low groundcover or annuals around their base to shade the soil. Mulch not only keeps roots cooler but also retains soil moisture.
In summary, provide lilies with ample sunlight for best flowering. An open site with good light and air flow will also help minimize disease. If lilies are leaning significantly or not blooming well, insufficient light is likely the culprit. Adjusting the planting location or thinning out overhead foliage can improve sun exposure for these sun-loving flowers.
💧 Water
Water is essential for lilies, but striking the right balance is key. Lilies prefer consistent moisture during their active growing season (spring and summer) but absolutely require good drainage. Soggy or waterlogged soil can quickly lead to bulb rot. It’s best to plant lilies in soil that you can keep evenly moist but never saturated.
After planting lily bulbs, water them in well to settle the soil. During growth, a general practice is to water deeply whenever the top inch or two of soil has dried out. In moderate climates with occasional rain, lilies may only need supplemental watering once or twice a week. In hot, dry periods, they might need more frequent watering. Aim to keep the soil lightly moist like a wrung-out sponge. Using mulch can help conserve soil moisture so the bulbs don’t dry out too quickly, especially in summer heat.
It’s particularly important to ensure adequate moisture in late spring and early summer when lilies are developing buds and preparing to bloom. A well-watered lily will produce larger, healthier flowers. Once flowering is finished, lilies enter a phase of storing energy back into their bulbs. At this time (late summer), most lilies (such as Asiatics, Trumpets, and hybrid lilies) can tolerate drier conditions and do not require heavy watering. In fact, many lily species come from regions with dry summers, so overly wet soil after blooming can stress them. Oriental lilies, which bloom later into summer, may still need watering during hot dry spells to sustain their growth and flowering.
When watering lilies, it’s best to water at soil level (using a soaker hose or watering can directed at the base) to keep the leaves dry, as wet foliage in cool conditions can encourage disease like Botrytis. Water in the morning if possible, so that any splashes on leaves dry quickly. Avoid creating standing water or boggy conditions around lily bulbs. In summary: keep lilies watered regularly during growth and bloom, but ensure excellent drainage and do not let them sit in water. A well-drained, moist (but not soaking) soil will keep lily bulbs happy and prevent rot.
🌍 Soil and pH
Lilies grow best in fertile, well-draining soil. Good drainage is arguably the most important soil factor for lilies, as their bulbs can rot in wet, heavy soils. A loose, friable soil such as a loam or sandy loam is ideal. If you have heavy clay soil, it’s important to amend it with organic matter (like compost) and possibly coarse sand or grit to improve drainage before planting lily bulbs. Alternatively, consider planting in raised beds or mounds to ensure excess water can drain away from the bulbs.
In terms of soil fertility, lilies appreciate a soil enriched with organic matter. Compost or well-rotted leaf mold worked into the planting area will provide nutrients and help retain just the right amount of moisture. Lilies are moderate feeders – they do not require extremely rich soil, but they respond well to balanced fertilizers. A mild application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in spring when shoots emerge can support strong growth and blooming. Be cautious not to over-fertilize with high-nitrogen fertilizers, as excessive nitrogen can lead to lush foliage at the expense of flowers and may make stems weaker.
The ideal soil pH for most lilies is slightly acidic to neutral, roughly in the range of pH 6.0 to 7.0. Many popular hybrids thrive in this range. Oriental lilies, in particular, prefer the soil on the acidic side (around pH 6 to 6.5 is often cited as optimal for them) and can develop chlorosis (yellowing leaves) in soils that are too alkaline. Asiatic lilies and several other groups are more forgiving and can tolerate neutral and even slightly alkaline soils (up to pH 7.5) without issue. If you know your soil is very alkaline, mixing in some acidifying organic matter like peat moss or using an acid fertilizer can help certain lilies perform better, especially Oriental varieties.
When planting lily bulbs, a common guideline is to plant them at a depth about 2 to 3 times the height of the bulb. For most lilies, this ends up being 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm) below the soil surface, measured from the top of the bulb. Planting a bit deeper can be beneficial: it keeps the bulbs insulated, encourages the development of sturdy stem roots above the bulb, and helps keep the bulbs cool in summer. One exception is Lilium candidum (Madonna lily), which prefers to be planted more shallowly (just under the soil surface, as it produces a winter basal rosette). After planting, backfill with soil and press firmly to eliminate air pockets. Ensure the bulbs are sitting in soil, not directly on raw fertilizer or manure (which can burn roots).
In summary, provide lilies with a well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral soil that has been enriched with organic matter. This will create an environment where their roots can breathe and access nutrients, and where water doesn’t linger around the bulbs. With the right soil conditions, lilies will establish quickly and reward you with vigorous growth and blooms.
❄️ USDA hardiness
Most garden lilies are quite cold-hardy perennials. In general, lilies can survive winter conditions in USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9, with some varieties extending a bit beyond that range. Asiatic lilies are among the hardiest: many can tolerate zone 3 winters (with mulch protection) and grow well up to about zone 8 or 9. Oriental lilies are slightly less hardy but still manage in zones 4 to 9 in many cases, they may need mulching in zone 4 winters for extra protection. Trumpet lilies and Oriental-Trumpet hybrids (often called Orienpets) are typically hardy in zones 4-8. Martagon lilies are quite hardy too (zone 3 or 4 through 7).
In very cold regions (zones 1-2 or zone 3 with harsh conditions), lilies might not survive outdoors unless special measures are taken. In such climates, gardeners sometimes lift the bulbs in fall and store them frost-free for winter, or grow the lilies in containers that can be moved to a sheltered spot during the coldest months. However, this is rarely necessary except in the most extreme climates, as many lilies naturally come from mountain or continental regions with freezing winters.
On the flip side, in very warm climates (zones 9-10 and above), growing lilies can be challenging but not impossible. The issue in warm zones is often the lack of a cold dormancy period rather than summer heat. Lilies generally like a cool winter rest. In zones with mild winters (no frost, zone 10+), some lilies won’t get the signal to reset, and their performance may decline over time. Gardeners in such areas sometimes pre-chill lily bulbs (similar to tulips) before planting, or treat lilies as annuals, planting new bulbs each season. Choosing species or hybrids that originate from warmer climates can also help (for example, Lilium formosanum or some Longiflorum hybrids might do better in mild winter areas). Ensuring they are in a spot with some afternoon shade can help lilies cope with extreme heat in the growing season.
Generally, if you’re in the commonly inhabited gardening range of zone 4-8, winter hardiness of lilies is not a problem. Simply plant the bulbs in fall or spring and they will overwinter in the ground. A winter mulch of straw or shredded leaves can be applied in late fall in colder zones to buffer soil temperature and prevent freeze-thaw heaving of bulbs. Come spring, the mulch can be pulled back as sprouts emerge. In summary, lilies are adaptable across a broad range of climates and are considered hardy in most temperate regions. Always check specific recommendations for a particular hybrid or species if you are at the extreme ends of the climate spectrum.
🌼 Propagation and longevity
Lilies can be propagated through several methods, and with good care, they are long-lived perennials. The most common propagation method is by division of bulbs. Every few years, a healthy lily bulb will produce small offset bulblets attached to its base. In autumn, after the foliage has died back, you can carefully dig up a clump of lilies and you will often find these smaller new bulbs around the main one. These can be gently separated and replanted elsewhere. Given a year or two to grow, these offshoots will mature and begin to bloom, effectively giving you more lily plants for free. It’s a good practice to divide and replant lilies every few years (generally every 3-5 years, or when you notice flowering diminishing) to prevent overcrowding and to rejuvenate the planting.
Another propagation method unique to certain lilies (such as the Tiger lily and some Asiatic hybrids) involves bulbils. Bulbils are tiny dark bulbs that form at the leaf axils (where the leaf meets the stem) on some lily plants. When the season is ending, these bulbils may drop off or can be picked off. You can plant bulbils in potting mix or a prepared bed about 1/2 inch deep. They will grow roots and eventually shoots, but it typically takes 2-3 years for a bulbil to grow into a flowering-size bulb. It’s a slower method but fun for gardeners who like to experiment.
Lilies can also be propagated by scaling. A lily bulb is made of scales (fleshy, layered segments). By plucking a few scales from a healthy bulb and placing them in a moist medium (like vermiculite or sand with a bit of fungicide to prevent rot), each scale can generate new little bulblets along its base. After several weeks or a few months, you might find tiny bulbils forming on the scale, which can then be potted up. This is a method often used by horticulturists to multiply valuable bulbs.
Growing lilies from seed is another avenue, though it requires patience. Some species lilies readily produce seed pods after flowering. If seeds are collected and sown, it can take anywhere from 2 to 6 years for seedlings to reach blooming size, depending on the species and conditions. Also, many hybrid lilies are sterile or will not produce true-to-parent plants from seed, so seed propagation is mostly for species lilies or for breeding new hybrids.
Regarding longevity: With proper care, lily bulbs can live and rebloom for many years, even decades. Asiatic lilies are known to be especially persistent, often naturalizing in a garden and returning annually without much fuss. Oriental lilies and some others may be a bit more finicky, sometimes declining after a number of years if soil conditions aren’t ideal (for instance, they might fall prey to rot in poor drainage or not multiply as vigorously). Gardeners have observed that some Orientals or hybrid lilies might dwindle after 4-5 years, whereas others continue robustly – it can depend on the specific cultivar and environment.
To maximize the lifespan of your lily plantings, it’s crucial to care for the foliage and bulbs properly. Allow the leaves and stems to die back naturally after bloom, they will turn yellow or brown later in the season, at which point they can be removed. While they are green, they are photosynthesizing and feeding the bulb for next year. Cutting green lily stalks to the ground immediately after flowering would weaken the bulb and could reduce its longevity. If you cut lilies for floral arrangements, try to leave as much of the stem and leaves in the ground as you can (generally at least one-third of the stem) so the bulb can continue to recharge. Also, a light top-dressing of compost or bulb fertilizer in fall can help nourish the bulbs going forward.
In summary, propagate lilies by dividing bulbs or planting bulbils/scales if you wish to create more plants. Expect well-cared-for lilies to come back each year and potentially multiply. Some types might eventually need lifting and replanting to maintain vigor, but lilies are generally reliable perennials that can grace your garden for a long time.
👃 Fragrance
Fragrance is a hallmark of many lilies, though not all lilies are scented. The presence or absence of scent often depends on the type of lily. Oriental lilies are especially famous for their intoxicating fragrance. Blooms from Oriental hybrids such as the white ‘Casa Blanca’ or the pink-speckled ‘Stargazer’ lily release a powerful sweet perfume that can fill an evening garden or a room with their aroma. Trumpet lilies (and Orienpet hybrids, which are cross between Oriental and Trumpet) also carry a strong, sweet and sometimes spicy fragrance. Many species lilies have unique scents as well – for instance, Lilium regale (Regal lily) has a rich, heady fragrance.
In contrast, Asiatic lilies have little to no fragrance. These hybrids were bred more for their early bloom and wide color range, not scent. Gardeners who love the look of lilies but prefer a scent-free or allergy-friendly option often choose Asiatic lilies for that reason. There are also some newer hybrid groups, such as certain LA hybrids (Longiflorum-Asiatic) or others, which may have mild fragrance, but generally if scent is desired, Oriental and Trumpet types are the go-to.
The fragrance of lilies tends to be strongest in the evenings and at night, particularly for those species pollinated by moths. It’s a sweet, sometimes cloyingly intense scent. Some describe it as a floral, jasmine-like or honeysuckle-like perfume with varying notes depending on the variety. A single Oriental lily stem in full bloom can perfume an entire small area. This makes lilies popular for bringing indoors – a vase of lilies can act like a natural air freshener for a room. However, individuals who are sensitive to strong scents may find lily fragrance overwhelming or may even experience headaches. In closed, unventilated spaces, the aroma can become quite potent.
One practical tip: Removing the pollen-bearing anthers from lily flowers (often done to prevent staining) does not significantly reduce the flower’s fragrance. The scent comes from the petals and the oils they produce, not the pollen. So, if you want the smell, leave them be, if you find the smell too strong, it’s better to simply move the flowers to a more ventilated space rather than expect de-pollening to help.
In the garden, the fragrance of lilies can be enjoyed by planting them near windows, patios, or along pathways where people pass by in the evening. Just be mindful if you have guests or household members with sensitivities. On the whole, fragrance is one of the enchanting qualities of lilies that many gardeners adore, adding another sensory dimension to their colorful blooms.
⚠️ Toxicity and pet safety
While lilies are beautiful, they come with a serious warning: true lilies (Lilium species and hybrids) are extremely toxic to cats. Every part of the plant – the leaves, petals, stems, and even the pollen – can cause acute kidney failure in domestic cats if ingested. Even a small exposure, such as a cat nibbling a leaf or licking pollen off its fur, can be lethal without prompt veterinary intervention. Symptoms in cats may start with vomiting, drooling, and lethargy within a few hours of ingestion, and can progress to anuria (absence of urine production) as the kidneys shut down. Cat owners are strongly advised to keep lilies out of homes and gardens accessible to cats. Many animal safety organizations include lilies at the top of the list of plants dangerous to pets. If a cat is suspected to have eaten any part of a lily, it’s a medical emergency.
Dogs are also susceptible to lily toxicity, but generally to a much lesser degree than cats. Some true lilies might cause gastrointestinal upset in dogs (vomiting, diarrhea, drooling) if enough plant material is eaten, but they typically do not suffer kidney failure like cats do. However, some plants called “lily” that aren’t true lilies can be harmful to dogs in other ways – for example, calla lilies and peace lilies contain oxalates that can irritate a dog’s mouth or throat if chewed. It’s wise to err on the side of caution and keep all lilies (true or otherwise) away from curious pets, since at best they might cause discomfort and at worst, in the case of cats and true lilies, they can be fatal.
For humans, lilies are not considered poisonous. One can handle lily plants and even accidental ingestion of a small piece (which is uncommon given they’re not food plants) is unlikely to cause more than maybe a mild stomach upset. In fact, certain lily bulbs are edible and used in cuisine (after proper preparation) – a reminder that toxicity can be very species-specific. Nonetheless, it’s always recommended to keep ornamental plant material away from small children who might be tempted to taste them. The main hazard lilies pose to humans is the pollen staining (which is more of a laundry problem than a health problem) or potential allergenic reactions for individuals sensitive to floral pollen or fragrance.
If you do receive lilies in a floral arrangement and have cats, either ensure the cats cannot reach them under any circumstance or choose to remove those lilies from the home. Even the water that cut lily stems have been in can contain toxins that are dangerous to cats if they drink it. Florists and veterinarians often put out PSA reminders around Easter (when Easter lilies are common) and other times to educate pet owners on this issue. In summary: lilies are gorgeous but deadly to felines, mildly irritating to canines, and generally safe for humans. Pet owners should exercise caution and perhaps opt for other flowers if they wish to avoid the risk entirely.
🌿 Vase life
Lilies are highly valued as cut flowers, not just for their beauty and fragrance but also for their respectable vase life. When properly handled, cut lily stems can last around a week or even up to two weeks indoors. The key is to cut them at the right stage and give them good care. Lilies should be cut when the first one or two buds on the stem are just starting to open or show color, while the rest of the buds are still closed. This way, you can enjoy the opening of flowers in the vase, and the later buds will continue to open over time, extending the display.
Once cut, remove any leaves on the lower part of the stem that would be submerged in water. Leaves in water can rot and cause bacteria to grow, shortening the life of the arrangement. Place the stems in clean, lukewarm water with floral preservative (flower food) if available. Re-cutting the stems at a slight angle under water (or underwater in a sink) before arranging them helps improve water uptake by eliminating air blockages in the stems.
In the vase, lilies prefer a cool spot out of direct sunlight and away from ripening fruits (which emit ethylene gas that can age flowers faster). Every couple of days, it’s beneficial to change the water and trim a little off the stem ends to keep the water uptake channels clear. Lilies have thick, fleshy stems that can absorb a lot of water, so keep an eye on water level as they may drink it up more quickly than thinner-stemmed flowers.
As the buds open, you’ll notice each lily flower has six prominent anthers with powdery pollen. It’s often recommended to remove these anthers gently with a tissue or small scissors as soon as the flower fully opens. This is because lily pollen can stain anything it touches (fabric, wood surfaces, etc.) with a yellow-orange stain that’s hard to wash out. Removing the pollen not only prevents accidental stains (like brushing against the flower and getting pollen on your clothes), but it can also slightly prolong the flower’s life. When a lily is pollinated (pollen touching the pistil), the flower’s life ends sooner as it begins forming seeds, by removing pollen, we avoid accidental pollination and potentially get a bit more bloom time. Note that the flowers will still be fragrant and beautiful without the anthers.
One stem of lilies can carry multiple blooms, so even as the first flowers start to wilt after several days, later buds will be opening. Remove spent blooms promptly – as soon as a lily flower starts to wither, snip it off to keep the arrangement looking fresh and to prevent any decay from falling into the water. With these steps, cut lilies are among the longer-lasting flowers for arrangements. Florists love using Oriental lilies in particular for dramatic, sweet-scented arrangements that can be enjoyed for many days.
🐛 Pests and diseases
Like all garden plants, lilies can be subject to a few pest and disease issues, although with attentive care these can be managed. Here are the main problems to watch for:
Pests: One of the most notorious pests for lily growers is the red lily leaf beetle (Lilioceris lilii). This bright red beetle (about 8 mm long) and its brown, slug-like larvae voraciously eat lily leaves, stems, buds, and flowers. An infestation can quickly defoliate lilies and greatly weaken the bulbs. The beetle has spread in many parts of North America and Europe. Gardeners should regularly inspect their lilies, especially in spring, for the adult beetles (which are easy to spot due to their color) and for clusters of reddish-brown larvae on the undersides of leaves. Hand-picking and squishing beetles (and wiping off the larvae) is a common organic control method. There are also insecticides that can control lily beetles if the problem is severe, but always follow local guidelines for use. It’s important to act early, as the larvae can do extensive damage if left unchecked.
Other insect pests include aphids, which are small sap-sucking insects often found on new growth or buds. Aphid infestations can cause distorted leaves or transmit viruses between plants. A strong spray of water can knock them off, or insecticidal soap can be used to reduce their numbers. Thrips, tiny slender insects, may also feed on lily flowers, causing blemishes on petals (little brown streaks or spots). If thrips are an issue, blue or yellow sticky traps or appropriate insecticides might be necessary.
Slugs and snails sometimes chew on young lily shoots or leaves, especially in damp, shaded conditions. They can create holes in leaves or even cut down small emerging sprouts at soil level. Using slug bait, beer traps, or simply hand-picking at night can help protect lilies. Keeping the area around lilies free of excessive mulch or hiding spots can reduce slug pressure.
Deer and rabbits are larger pests that can be very frustrating: deer are known to browse on lily buds and foliage (often snipping off the buds right before they open, much to the gardener’s dismay), and rabbits or groundhogs might nibble young shoots. In areas with high deer presence, one may need to use deer repellents or physical barriers (fencing) to keep them away from lilies. Some gardeners report that red lily beetle infestations are less severe if deer have eaten the lilies – but that’s a case of the cure being as bad as the disease! If you suspect wildlife is eating your lilies, look for tell-tale signs like cleanly cut stems (deer often leave a blunt bite) or scattered petals.
Underground, rodents such as voles or mice can sometimes feed on lily bulbs. If you have problems with bulbs disappearing, consider planting lilies in bulb baskets or lining the planting hole with wire mesh to exclude burrowing critters. Fortunately, lilies are not the preferred food of squirrels compared to tulips, but it can happen.
Diseases: The most common disease issue on lilies is Botrytis blight, also known as lily gray mold or lily fire. It’s caused by the fungus Botrytis elliptica (related to the Botrytis that causes gray mold on many plants). It thrives in cool, wet weather. Symptoms include brown or grayish spots on leaves and petals, often with a concentric ring or “bull’s-eye” appearance, and a fuzzy gray mold growth in humid conditions. Badly infected leaves may turn yellow and die off. Botrytis does not typically kill lily bulbs, but it can weaken the plant by reducing its foliage and also makes the plant unsightly. To manage Botrytis, focus on cultural control: ensure good spacing and air circulation around lilies, avoid overhead watering (water at soil level instead), and clean up any diseased debris around the plants. If you know the weather is consistently wet and cool, you might apply a preventative fungicide (like a copper-based spray or other fungicide labeled for ornamental leaf spots) when you first see spots. Remove and dispose of (do not compost) heavily infected leaves or spent flowers that show mold, to reduce spore spread.
Another issue that can affect lilies is basal rot, often caused by fungi such as Fusarium. This is a bulb rot that typically starts from the bulb’s base and can cause the lily shoot to yellow and collapse. If you dig up an affected bulb, it may be mushy or discolored on the bottom. Basal rot is encouraged by warm, moist conditions and sometimes by mechanical damage to bulbs. To prevent it, plant only firm, healthy bulbs and avoid injuring them. Ensure soil drains well so bulbs are not sitting in water. If you encounter a rotted bulb, remove it and some of the surrounding soil and consider treating the area with a fungicide or leaving it unplanted for a season to allow any pathogens to die off.
Viral diseases can also afflict lilies. These are often spread by aphids or carried in infected propagation material. One common virus is the lily mosaic virus (also called Tulip Breaking Virus, which in lilies causes a subtle mottling or streaking of the leaves and sometimes color break in flowers). Other viruses like Lily symptomless virus, Lily rosette virus, or Cucumber mosaic virus can also infect lilies, leading to symptoms like yellow streaks, twisted leaves, or stunted growth. Unfortunately, there is no cure for viral infections in plants – the only remedy is to remove and destroy infected plants to prevent spread. Always start with virus-free bulbs from reputable sources. If you notice a lily that year after year has strange streaked foliage or poor growth while others are fine, it may be virus-infected and best removed. Controlling aphids will also help reduce virus transmission.
In summary, keep an eye out for pests and tackle them early: handpick beetles, wash off or spray aphids, bait for slugs, and protect from larger animals as needed. For diseases, focus on providing a good growing environment (sunny, airy, not too wet) and hygiene (cleaning up dead material, rotating planting areas if something like rot occurs). Lilies that are kept healthy and unstressed are much more capable of resisting pests and diseases. With attentive care, problems can be minimized and you can enjoy lush, beautiful lilies each season.
FAQs
When is the best time to plant lily bulbs?
Lily bulbs are typically planted in either the fall or early spring. Fall planting is often recommended in climates with cold winters – getting bulbs in the ground by mid to late fall (before the ground freezes) allows them to start establishing roots and they’ll be ready to burst forth in spring. In areas with harsh winters, you can also plant in early spring as soon as the soil is workable, those lilies will still bloom that summer, just slightly later than fall-planted ones. The key is to avoid planting when the ground is frozen or waterlogged. Ensure the bulbs are planted about 4-6 inches deep (around 2-3 times the bulb’s height) with the pointed end up. Cover with soil and water them in. If planting in spring, you might even start the bulbs in pots indoors late winter and transfer them outside once frost is past to get a jump on the season. Whenever you plant, remember to provide good drainage – a crucial factor for lily bulbs.
Do lilies come back every year?
Yes, lilies are perennial bulbs, so they will come back year after year under the right conditions. After a lily blooms in summer, the bulb goes into a dormancy period over fall and winter, then sprouts again the next growing season. As long as the bulb remains healthy (not killed by extreme conditions or rot), it will regenerate. In fact, many lilies will multiply over time, producing more bulbs (and thus more stems and flowers in subsequent years). Garden lilies like Asiatics and Orientals are generally very reliable perennials in their hardiness range – you can plant them once and enjoy their blooms for many years. It’s important to care for them properly to ensure they return: let the foliage die back naturally after bloom (so the bulb can store energy), and avoid waterlogged soil that could cause the bulb to rot in winter. In very cold zones, mulching over winter can protect bulbs. But in general, treat lilies as long-lived garden plants. If you notice fewer blooms after a few years, it might be time to divide and replant the bulbs to give them more space and nutrients, but they do not need to be replanted annually.
How do I propagate my lilies?
The easiest way to propagate lilies is by dividing the bulbs. Every few years, dig up your lily clumps in the fall (or very early spring before sprouting) and you’ll likely find small “baby” bulbs attached or adjacent to the main bulbs. Gently separate these offsets and replant them elsewhere at the proper depth. Given a year or two of growth, these small bulbs will mature and start blooming. Another method for certain types of lilies (like Tiger lilies or some Asiatic lilies) is to collect the little dark bulbils that form along their stems. You can plant these bulbils in potting mix about half an inch deep and keep them moist, they will grow into new bulbs that bloom in a couple of years. Lily enthusiasts also sometimes propagate by “scaling” – peeling off a few scales from a bulb and incubating them in a moist medium to get new bulblets to form – but this is a more advanced technique. Growing from seed is possible too, especially with species lilies, but keep in mind it’s a slow process taking several years to see flowers and hybrids won’t come true from seed. In summary, for home gardeners, dividing bulbs and planting bulbils are the most straightforward ways to get more lilies.
Can lilies grow in containers?
Yes, lilies can be successfully grown in containers, provided the pot is deep enough and you choose appropriate lily varieties. Many dwarf or “pot lily” varieties (often Asiatic hybrids) are bred specifically for container culture, staying under 2 feet tall. But even taller lilies can be container-grown if the pot is sufficiently large and stable. Use a container that is at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep (deeper for tall varieties) with good drainage holes. Plant the bulbs at the same depth you would in the ground (around 4-6 inches deep, depending on bulb size), and you can cluster a few bulbs in a pot, spacing them a few inches apart. Use a well-draining potting mix – a mix formulated for bulbs or a general potting mix amended with some grit or sand works well. Place the container where it will receive plenty of sun. One thing to watch with potted lilies is watering: container soil can dry out faster, so check regularly and water when the top inch of soil is dry. On the other hand, ensure there’s no saucer of standing water beneath – drainage is still key to prevent rot. Fertilize lightly, as the limited soil will get depleted, a slow-release fertilizer in spring or occasional liquid feed will help. After lilies in pots finish blooming, you can treat them similarly to garden lilies: let the foliage die back. If your winters are very cold (below the hardiness of the lily), you may need to move the pot to a sheltered spot so the bulbs don’t freeze solid (a garage or shed works) or remove the bulbs and store them, then replant in spring. In milder areas, the pots can simply overwinter outside, perhaps with a bit of mulch on top. Many people enjoy potting up lilies so they can be moved into prime view when in bloom and then tucked aside later.
Why are my lilies not blooming?
If your lilies produce foliage but no flowers, or they have significantly fewer blooms than expected, a few factors could be responsible. The most common reason is insufficient sunlight – remember, lilies typically need 6+ hours of sun to generate the energy for blooming. If they’re in too much shade, they might grow leaves but not form flower buds. Another factor could be overcrowding or depletion of the bulbs. If lilies have been in the same spot for many years and have multiplied, the bulbs might be competing for nutrients and space, resulting in smaller bulbs that aren’t strong enough to bloom. In that case, dig and divide them in the fall and replant with more spacing (and perhaps refresh the soil with some compost). Nutrient deficiency can also play a role, lilies do need some feeding. Lack of phosphorus (important for flowering) or overly nitrogen-rich soil (which promotes leaves over flowers) could reduce blooming. Ensure you’re providing a balanced fertilizer in spring. Additionally, cutting the foliage too early in the previous season can cause no blooms the next year – the bulbs may not have stored enough energy. Always let stems die back naturally post-bloom. Sometimes environmental stress like drought or unusual weather can interrupt blooming. And lastly, check for pests or disease: a heavy infestation of lily beetles or a virus infection can weaken plants to where they don’t bloom. By troubleshooting these possibilities – light, nutrition, spacing, and health – you can usually identify the cause and help your lilies return to their flowering glory.
Should I deadhead or cut back lilies after flowering?
Deadheading lilies (removing the spent blossoms) is a good practice. Once a lily flower fades, you can snip off the ovary/seed pod that forms at the base of the flower, cutting just the spent bloom and a bit of its stem. This prevents the plant from expending energy on developing seeds. Instead, that energy goes back into the bulb for next year. However, while you remove the flower, do not cut down the whole lily stalk right after flowering. Lilies need their stems and leaves intact after blooming to photosynthesize and build up the bulb. Only once the stem has completely turned yellow or brown and dried up (usually in late fall) should you cut the stalk down to ground level. Essentially, deadhead in summer as flowers finish, but let the rest of the plant be until it naturally dies back. Some gardeners don’t like the look of the aging foliage, one trick is to plant other plants nearby that can hide or distract from the yellowing lily leaves later in the season. If the aesthetic is a concern, you can also trim off particularly unsightly, fully brown leaves or cut the stalk back partway once it starts dying, but be sure some green remains if it’s not fully dormant. Proper timing in cutting back ensures a stronger bloom cycle the next year.
What is the difference between Asiatic and Oriental lilies?
Asiatic and Oriental lilies are two popular classes of hybrid lilies, and they differ in bloom time, appearance, fragrance, and care.
Asiatic lilies are derived from several Central and East Asian Lilium species. They are usually early bloomers – often flowering in late spring to early summer (June in many climates). Asiatic flowers come in a wide array of colors: orange, red, yellow, pink, white, and many bi-colors, often vivid and sometimes with spots or freckles. Their blooms tend to face upward or outward and are typically not as large in size as Oriental lily blooms. Importantly, Asiatic lilies have little to no fragrance. They are prized for their easy care and reliability, they are very winter-hardy (some down to zone 3) and they multiply readily, making for a great perennial show. Asiatic lily plants are usually medium in height, ranging from about 1 to 4 feet tall depending on the cultivar, and they have a relatively upright, tidy appearance.
Oriental lilies, on the other hand, originate from Japanese and other East Asian species (like Lilium orientale and related species). They bloom later in the season, typically mid to late summer (July or August). Oriental lilies are renowned for their fragrance – they have a powerful, sweet perfume that can be noticed from a distance. Their flowers are often larger, with a more rounded or ruffled shape, and commonly have a starburst or contrasting color pattern (for example, many are white or pink with deep pink speckles or central stripes). A classic example is the pink flowers of the ‘Stargazer’ lily (bright pink with white edges and spots) or the pure white ‘Casa Blanca’ lily, both are Oriental hybrids and highly fragrant. Oriental lilies tend to be taller on average than Asiatics – many are in the 3 to 4 feet range, with some reaching 5 feet in ideal conditions. Their foliage is usually broader and darker green. They prefer slightly acidic soil and are a bit less tolerant of extreme cold or heat compared to Asiatics (generally hardy around zones 4-9). They also often take a year to settle in before blooming heavily (it’s not unusual for Oriental lily bulbs to put up a short stem the first year and then reach full height and bloom the next). Gardeners often use Asiatic lilies for early color and Oriental lilies for later color and fragrance, and they complement each other nicely in a garden design.
Are lilies related to daylilies or calla lilies?
Despite the similar names, true lilies are not closely related to daylilies or calla lilies. True lilies belong to the genus Lilium, whereas daylilies are in the genus Hemerocallis (and are actually in the asparagus plant family) and calla lily is in the genus Zantedeschia (part of the arum family). They are very different plants. Daylilies have strap-like leaves that form a clump at the base and produce flower stalks where each bloom lasts only one day (hence “day-lily”). They grow from fleshy roots, not bulbs. Calla lilies grow from rhizomes (a type of underground stem) and have a distinctive flower structure: a trumpet-like colorful spathe surrounding a central spike. Neither of these are “lilies” in the botanical sense. The confusion comes from common naming, many flowers that have lily-like blooms or growth got the name “lily” historically. This includes not only daylilies and callas, but also plants like peace lilies (a houseplant), canna lilies, lily-of-the-valley, etc. All of those are unrelated to Lilium. So, if you’re discussing plant care or toxicity, it’s important to make the distinction. For example, as mentioned, true lilies are deadly to cats, but daylilies are also toxic to cats in a similar way (since oddly, cats are affected by both Lilium and Hemerocallis). Calla lilies are somewhat toxic too (they can cause oral irritation if ingested due to calcium oxalate crystals), but again, these are separate issues from true lilies. In gardening terms, true lilies typically grow taller and from bulbs, whereas daylilies form mounds of leaves and spread gradually, and calla lilies are often treated as tender bulbs/corms for their showy spathes. Understanding the difference will help you give each plant the proper care it needs.
Interesting tips
- Ancient heritage: Lilies have been cultivated for millennia. The Madonna lily (Lilium candidum), for example, was grown by the ancient Greeks and Romans and is depicted in frescoes dating back to the Minoan civilization. These flowers have long been symbols of purity and were often associated with deities and the divine in various cultures.
- Not all “lilies” are lilies: Many plants with “lily” in their name aren’t true lilies. Lily of the Valley, canna lily, daylily, and peace lily are a few examples of plants that are not part of the Lilium This is a fun fact that often surprises new gardeners – the term “lily” has been applied broadly in common names, even though true lilies have specific botanical traits (like scaly bulbs and six-part flowers).
- Pollen stains: Lily pollen is notorious for staining fabrics and surfaces with a yellow-orange powder. To avoid this, you can carefully remove the anthers from each flower as it opens. Use a tissue or gloves to pinch them off to prevent getting pollen on your fingers. If pollen does get on clothing, resist the urge to rub it (that just works it in deeper), instead, gently lift it off with sticky tape or dab with a dry cloth first. This little trick will save your tablecloths and clothes while still allowing you to enjoy the blooms.
- Edible bulbs: In some cultures, lily bulbs are considered a delicacy. Certain species like Lilium brownii and Lilium davidii have large, starchy bulbs that are eaten in Chinese cuisine. The bulbs are usually peeled, then used in soups, stir-fries, or desserts. They have a texture somewhat like a crisp potato or water chestnut and a mild, slightly sweet flavor. Not all lily bulbs are palatable – some are bitter or too small – but it’s an interesting use of lilies beyond ornamentals. (Do note, this refers to true lily bulbs, never consume bulbs of plants unless you are absolutely sure of their safety and identity.)
- Symbolism: Lilies carry rich symbolism. White lilies, in particular, are associated with purity and virtue – in Christian art, the white lily is an emblem of the Virgin Mary. In Victorian floriography (the language of flowers), lilies could convey a message of majesty or honor. Different lily species also have unique meanings, for example, lily of the valley (again, not a true lily) means “return of happiness.” Stargazer lilies can symbolize ambition and wealth. This symbolic significance is one reason lilies remain popular in ceremonial occasions like weddings (for hope and purity) and funerals (especially white lilies symbolizing the restoration of the soul and innocence).
- No true blue: Plant breeders have developed lilies in an astonishing array of colors, including varieties that are nearly black or ones that have exotic patterns. However, one color you will never see in a true lily is a true blue. Lilies lack the genetic capability to produce blue pigments in their petals. So, while you might find white, yellow, pink, red, orange, purple, and almost-black lilies, any so-called “blue lily” is either a photoshopped image, an artificially dyed flower, or a different plant entirely (like the water lily or dayflower). This makes blue one of the rare gaps in an otherwise rainbow-rich genus of flowers.