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Daylily
The daylily (Hemerocallis) is a hardy perennial flowering plant celebrated for its vibrant, lily-like blooms and remarkable toughness. It is one of the most popular ornamental types of flowers in home gardens, valued for its prolific summer display and minimal maintenance needs. Each blossom of a daylily typically lasts just a single day – opening in the morning and withering by night – yet the plant produces so many buds in succession that a mature clump can bloom for weeks. Modern daylily hybrids offer a rainbow of colors, from bright yellow flowers and oranges to deep reds, pinks, and purples, although a true blue daylily does not exist (gardeners must turn to other blue flowers for that hue). The foliage forms an attractive arching clump of slender, grass-like leaves that remains lush during the growing season. Often dubbed “the perfect perennial,” the daylily tolerates a wide range of conditions, resists drought and cold, and thrives with little care. It has become a backbone of summer gardens, frequently planted in masses or mixed borders. Daylilies pair well with spring-blooming plants – for example, they often follow bearded irises or peony blooms – ensuring continuous color as the season progresses. Their reliable performance and showy flowers have made daylilies a staple from cottage gardens to public landscapes worldwide.
🌱 Taxonomy and origin
Despite its common name, the daylily is not a true lily. It belongs to the genus Hemerocallis, which is now classified in the asparagus or asphodel family (Asphodelaceae, subfamily Hemerocallidoideae). Older botanical systems had placed daylilies in the lily family (Liliaceae), but modern taxonomy has separated them due to distinct differences in morphology and genetics. The genus name Hemerocallis comes from the Greek words hēmera (“day”) and kallos (“beauty”), referring to the flower’s one-day lifespan or “beauty for a day.” There are approximately 15-20 species in the genus, all native to Asia. Wild daylily species originate primarily from eastern Asia, including China, Japan, Korea, and parts of Siberia. In their native habitats, they grow in meadows, forest edges, and mountainsides, adapting to a variety of climates.
Daylilies have been cultivated in Asia for centuries and carry cultural significance (in China, for instance, they were grown both as ornamentals and for food). European botanists first formally described daylilies in the mid-18th century – the Swedish naturalist Carl Linnaeus gave Hemerocallis its name in 1753. The plants were introduced to European gardens around that time, prized for their striking summer blooms. By the early 19th century, daylilies also made their way to North America with settlers who brought the rugged orange daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) as a favorite plant from home. That species readily naturalized in the New World, earning nicknames like “ditch lily” as it spread along roadsides and homestead yards. Today, daylilies are grown throughout temperate and subtropical regions across the globe. Extensive hybridization over the last 100 years – especially in the United States – has led to an explosion of new varieties. There are tens of thousands of registered daylily cultivars (by recent counts, over 90,000), exhibiting an astonishing range of colors, patterns, and forms. This rich variety, combined with the plant’s ease of growth, cements Hemerocallis as a cornerstone of ornamental horticulture worldwide.
🌸 Bloom time
Daylilies are famed for their abundant summer blooms. The exact bloom time can vary depending on the cultivar or species, but generally these plants flower from late spring into the height of summer. Many classic daylily varieties begin blooming in early to mid-summer (June through July in many climates). Breeders have developed early-season daylilies that start opening as soon as late spring, as well as late-season types that can flower in late summer or even early autumn. By planting a mix of early, mid, and late blooming cultivars, gardeners can enjoy daylily flowers over an extended period, often from May through September. Most daylily clumps will stay in bloom for several weeks, typically producing new flowers each day over a span of about 2 to 5 weeks.
Each individual daylily flower is short-lived – it opens in the morning (or in late afternoon for a few night-blooming varieties) and wilts by the end of the day or the next morning. This ephemeral nature is the inspiration for the name “daylily.” However, each flowering stem (called a scape) carries multiple buds, so as one bloom fades another is ready to open the following day. A healthy daylily plant may have several scapes, resulting in dozens of blossoms over its bloom cycle. Gardeners often remove spent flowers (a practice known as deadheading) to keep plants looking tidy; while deadheading isn’t required for continued blooming, it can prevent the plant from expending energy on seed production. Notably, many modern hybrids are rebloomers – these cultivars have the ability to produce a second (or even continuous) flush of flowers later in the season, especially if conditions are favorable and old blooms are removed. For example, the popular dwarf daylily ‘Stella de Oro’ is prized for its repeat blooming habit, providing waves of golden-yellow flowers throughout summer. In summary, a well-planned selection of daylilies can ensure vibrant blooms from late spring until the first frost, despite each flower’s fleeting one-day show.
📏 Height and spread
Daylilies are herbaceous perennials that grow in clumps, with a fountain of arching leaves at the base and taller flower stalks rising above. The foliage is slender, elongated, and strappy, resembling thick grass or a ribbon. In most varieties the leaves reach about 1 to 2 feet (30-60 cm) in length, emerging from the crown at soil level and curving outward. The plant’s height is often defined by its flower scapes, which can range widely in different cultivars. Dwarf or miniature daylilies may have flower stems under 1 foot tall, while standard garden varieties typically have scapes about 2 to 3 feet tall (60-90 cm). Some specialty or older varieties can send up tall scapes reaching 4 to 5 feet (over 1 meter), and a few giant types even approach 6 feet in height. Generally, most modern daylilies in gardens stand roughly 2 to 4 feet high when in bloom, making them excellent mid-height border plants.
In terms of spread, a single daylily plant will gradually expand to form a larger clump over time. Daylilies have fibrous, fleshy roots (sometimes with tuber-like storage structures) that anchor the plant and store nutrients. They do not have invasive running roots in most cases, so a daylily clump tends to stay where it was planted, slowly getting wider as fans multiply at the crown. A newly planted division may start as just a few fans (leaf bundles), but over 2-3 years it can form a dense clump perhaps 1.5 to 3 feet (45-90 cm) in diameter. In a favorable spot, an established daylily clump might eventually hold dozens of fans and produce an impressive bouquet of flower stalks. Gardeners typically divide the clumps every few years to prevent overcrowding and to rejuvenate flowering (more on propagation in a later section). While one particular species – the common orange H. fulva – can spread more aggressively by creeping rhizomes (earning its “ditch lily” reputation), most hybrid daylilies stay as well-behaved clumps. They fit nicely into garden borders without overtaking neighboring plants. The tidy, rounded form of daylily foliage also makes it useful as a groundcover mass or a foreground planting in front of taller shrubs. When not in bloom, the lush green leaves provide a pleasing texture and can hide the bare stems of other plants behind them.
☀️ Light
Daylilies perform best in full sun or lightly filtered sun. Ideally, they should receive around 6 or more hours of direct sunlight per day to maximize bloom production. In full sun, daylily plants tend to produce more flowers and the blooms display their brightest colors. Many classic varieties, especially those with lighter-colored or pastel flowers (like yellows, pinks, and near-whites), will show their true color intensity only with ample sun. However, daylilies are quite adaptable and will tolerate partial shade as well. In hot southern climates, or for varieties with very dark-colored blooms (deep reds or purples), a bit of afternoon shade can actually be beneficial to prevent the flower colors from fading in intense sunlight. Thus, full sun to part shade is the general recommendation.
In conditions of substantial shade (for example, fewer than 4 hours of sun, or dappled light under dense trees), daylilies will survive but may produce significantly fewer blossoms. The plants might also stretch more, with longer leaves and scapes as they reach for light. If your daylilies are not blooming well, insufficient light is often a culprit. A location with morning sun and light afternoon shade works well, as does an open site with sun for most of the day. These plants are frequently seen thriving in open fields, along roadsides, and in unshaded garden beds – a testament to their sun-loving nature. While they can handle midday heat, providing water and mulch (to cool the roots) will help daylilies look their best in the hottest, sunniest exposures. In summary, plant daylilies where they will get plenty of sun, but don’t worry if they receive a couple hours of shade, especially in very warm regions. They are forgiving as long as they aren’t kept in deep shade.
💧 Water
Established daylilies are fairly drought-tolerant, but for optimal growth and flowering they prefer consistent moisture. In an average garden setting, daylilies do well with moderate watering – roughly the equivalent of 1 inch of water per week during the growing season, whether from rainfall or irrigation. They like the soil to be evenly moist but not waterlogged. After planting (or when dividing and replanting clumps), regular watering is important to help daylilies establish a strong root system. Once established, these plants can endure short dry spells thanks to their fleshy roots that store some water. However, prolonged drought will cause the foliage to brown off early and can reduce or pause blooming, so it’s best to water them during extended dry periods.
For best results, water deeply and infrequently rather than shallow, frequent sprinklings. A deep soaking encourages the roots to grow downward and strengthens the plant’s resilience. Allowing the top few inches of soil to dry slightly between waterings is fine, but do not let the soil become bone dry for too long, especially in the heat of summer when the plants are actively blooming. Mulching around the base of daylily clumps is a helpful practice: a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch (like bark or straw) will retain soil moisture and keep the roots cooler, reducing watering needs. On the other hand, avoid overwatering and poor drainage. Daylilies will suffer if their roots sit in waterlogged, soggy soil; this can lead to root rot and foliage decline. In summary, give daylilies a medium amount of water – they appreciate regular moisture and will reward you with lush growth and blooms, but they can also survive occasional dry periods better than many other perennials. During especially hot, dry spells, an extra deep watering once or twice a week will help keep them thriving and flowering abundantly.
🌍 Soil and pH
Daylilies are famously adaptable to different soil conditions, which contributes to their “easy care” reputation. They will grow in most average garden soils as long as there is reasonable drainage. However, for the best performance, daylilies prefer well-drained, loamy soil that is rich in organic matter. A deep, fertile loam that retains moisture yet drains excess water is ideal. When planting daylilies, it’s beneficial to work in some compost or aged manure into the planting area. This added organic matter improves soil structure, provides nutrients, and helps the soil hold the right balance of moisture. Daylilies can tolerate clay soil if it’s amended to improve drainage, as well as sandy soil if organic material is added to hold moisture. In heavy clay, consider raising the planting bed a few inches to help water drain away from the crowns.
Regarding soil pH, daylilies are not very fussy and can grow in a fairly wide pH range. They perform well in neutral to slightly acidic soils. An optimal pH for daylilies is often cited around 6.0 to 6.8 (mildly acidic), but they can also do fine in soils that are a bit more acidic or slightly alkaline. In practice, a pH anywhere from roughly 6 up to about 7.5 is usually tolerated. Some varieties have even been noted to handle alkaline conditions near pH 8, though extreme alkalinity or acidity may cause nutrient availability issues (e.g., very high pH can lead to iron chlorosis in many plants). If your soil is very acidic (below pH 5.5) or highly alkaline, you might consider amending it (with lime to raise pH, or sulfur/organic matter to lower pH) for the long-term health of the plants. Fortunately, most garden soils fall in an acceptable range, and daylilies will adjust. In summary, plant daylilies in any good garden soil that drains well. Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral pH if possible, and enrich the soil with organic matter for best growth. Once established, daylilies’ robust roots will penetrate and improve the soil structure further, making these plants quite self-sufficient over time.
❄️ USDA hardiness
Daylilies are known for their impressive hardiness and can be grown in a wide span of climate zones. Most daylily cultivars are hardy in roughly USDA zones 3 through 9, which covers a majority of the United States. In cooler regions (zones 3 and 4, where winter temperatures can drop to -30°F / -34°C or below), many daylilies survive just fine, especially the “dormant” types that naturally die back and go dormant over winter. These plants often benefit from a layer of mulch in late fall to protect the crowns from extreme freeze-thaw cycles, but they can withstand very cold winters under snow cover. Some particularly tough species and hybrids have even been reported to survive in zone 2 conditions (around -40°F / -40°C) with heavy winter mulching, though this is at the edge of their tolerance.
In warmer climates, daylilies also perform well. They tolerate heat and humidity with ease, making them popular in the American South and similar regions. Many varieties can grow in zone 8, 9, and even 10. In the hottest zones (9 and 10, where winters are mild), daylilies will grow year-round but might have reduced flowering if they don’t get any cool period. There are evergreen and semi-evergreen daylily cultivars bred especially for warm climates – these retain some or all of their foliage through winter and do not require a cold dormancy to bloom. Gardeners in Florida, southern Texas, or Southern California (zones 9-10) often choose those varieties for better results. By contrast, the classic dormant (deciduous) daylilies that thrive up north may struggle in the tropics or subtropics, as they “want” a winter rest. In zone 9 and above, daylilies will grow, but truly cold-hardy dormant cultivars might not flower as prolifically after mild winters. It’s worth noting that daylilies have been cultivated successfully even in alpine or arid climates with the right care, underscoring their adaptability.
Overall, the range of USDA hardiness is very broad – roughly zone 3 through 9 for most cultivars, with some outliers beyond that. This means daylilies can flourish in environments from cold northern gardens to the heat of the deep South. Their ability to withstand frost and snow on one hand, and high summer temperatures on the other, is a key reason they are so widely grown. Always check the specific hardiness of a particular cultivar if it’s a special type, but gardeners almost everywhere except the extreme arctic or true tropics can find a daylily suitable for their region.
🌼 Propagation and longevity
Daylilies are commonly propagated by division, which is a simple and effective method to produce more plants and to reinvigorate established clumps. Division involves digging up a mature daylily clump and separating it into smaller sections (each section should have at least a few leaves or “fans” attached to a piece of the root crown with roots). The best time to divide daylilies is either early spring (just as new growth starts) or immediately after flowering in late summer to early fall. In cold winter areas, spring division is often recommended so new divisions have the whole growing season to re-establish. To divide, one would dig up the clump, gently shake or wash off excess soil, and then pry apart the fans. Some clumps pull apart easily by hand; tougher, older clumps might need a garden fork or knife to separate the dense crown. Each division can then be replanted at the same depth the plant was originally growing, spaced adequately to allow room for future expansion (typically daylilies are spaced about 18-24 inches apart, depending on variety). After replanting, watering well and mulching will help the new divisions settle in. Division every 3 to 5 years is a good practice to keep daylilies blooming their best, as overcrowded clumps can start to flower less over time.
Another propagation option is growing daylilies from seed, though this is less common for gardeners (it’s more often done by hybridizers trying to create new varieties). Daylily seeds can be collected from the pods that form after blooms if pollinated. If sown and grown to maturity, seedling daylilies will not be identical to the parent (except for certain species or self-pollinated varieties) and may take 2-3 years to produce their first flowers. This route is slow and unpredictable in terms of bloom quality, so most people stick to dividing established plants. Occasionally, daylilies also produce small proliferations or plantlets on their flower scapes (for example, a tiny new plant might start where a bloom was). These can be rooted and grown on, essentially cloning the parent, which is a fun but not very common propagation method.
Daylilies are long-lived perennials. In terms of longevity, a single daylily plant can persist for decades in the garden. There are many cases of daylily clumps in old gardens or cemeteries that have survived for 20, 30, even 50 years or more with minimal care. As long as the growing conditions remain suitable (and the clump is occasionally rejuvenated by division if it becomes too crowded), daylilies will continue to come back year after year. They do not have a set lifespan like some short-lived perennials; instead, they can effectively live indefinitely by continually regenerating new fans from the crown. Proper care – such as dividing when needed, providing fertilizer or compost annually, and keeping them watered in droughts – can ensure a daylily bed remains vibrant and floriferous for many years. In summary, propagating your daylilies through periodic division not only gives you more plants to spread around, but it also keeps the original plants vigorous. With this routine care, you can expect your daylilies to be a permanent and reliable part of your landscape, potentially for a lifetime.
👃 Fragrance
When it comes to fragrance, daylilies show a range of characteristics: some are delightfully scented, while many others have little to no noticeable smell. In general, the wild species of Hemerocallis include a few strongly fragrant types. For example, the yellow Hemerocallis lilioasphodelus (also known as lemon lily) is well known for its sweet, lily-like perfume that intensifies in the evenings. Another species, Hemerocallis citrina, opens its pale yellow flowers at night and emits a lovely fragrance to attract nocturnal pollinators. These naturally fragrant daylilies have contributed their genes to certain hybrids. As a result, hundreds of cultivars have fragrant flowers, especially those bred from the older scented lines. Many fragrant daylilies tend to be yellow, gold, or cream in color, though that’s not a strict rule.
However, it’s important to note that a large portion of modern daylily hybrids were developed primarily for color, form, and hardiness rather than fragrance. Many of the popular varieties in gardens today have little scent or only a very faint one that might require sticking your nose into the bloom to detect. Gardeners who desire fragrance can select specifically labeled fragrant cultivars – specialist daylily growers often note which hybrids are nicely perfumed. The scent of a fragrant daylily is usually described as sweet and pleasant, sometimes similar to honeysuckle or a light lily scent, but generally not overpowering. Because daylily blooms are short-lived and outdoors, their fragrance tends to be a subtle garden delight rather than something that perfumes a whole yard (unlike, say, jasmine or gardenia shrubs). Still, on a warm summer evening, a clump of reblooming yellow daylilies with a gentle scent can add an extra dimension of enjoyment to the garden.
In summary, fragrance in daylilies is cultivar-dependent. If having a scented flower is important to you, look for varieties specifically bred for fragrance. Otherwise, assume that any given daylily will be grown more for its visual appeal than its smell. Even without a strong fragrance, daylilies contribute plenty of beauty to the garden, and you can always plant them alongside more aromatic flowers or herbs if you want a fragrant garden area.
⚠️ Toxicity and pet safety
Gardeners should be aware that daylilies (Hemerocallis species and hybrids) can be dangerous to certain pets, even though they are generally harmless to humans. In particular, daylilies are highly toxic to cats. This toxicity is similar to that of true lilies (Lilium species) with respect to felines. If a cat ingests any part of a daylily – leaves, flowers, or even pollen – it can lead to a severe reaction and potentially fatal kidney failure. Symptoms in cats may include vomiting, lethargy, loss of appetite, and increased thirst or urination as kidney damage progresses. Without prompt veterinary intervention, a cat poisoning from daylilies can be fatal, so it’s a very serious concern. It’s worth emphasizing that all parts of the plant are considered toxic to cats, and even a small exposure (such as a cat chewing a single leaf or licking pollen off its fur) can be enough to cause harm. Therefore, cat owners are strongly advised to keep cats away from daylilies and to avoid planting daylilies in areas where cats roam freely. If there is any suspicion that a cat has ingested or mouthed a daylily, one should seek veterinary care immediately.
For other pets and humans, daylilies are not known to be toxic. Dogs, unlike cats, do not seem to suffer the same severe effects from daylily ingestion – the ASPCA lists daylilies as non-toxic to dogs. A dog that eats daylily leaves or flowers might get an upset stomach at most, but generally serious poisoning in dogs is not reported. Likewise, daylily plants are considered safe for handling by people; they don’t cause skin irritation (no spines or caustic sap) and are not poisonous if touched. In fact, daylily flowers and buds are edible for humans and have been used in certain cuisines (the buds are often dried and used in Asian cooking, sometimes called “golden needles”). Of course, eating any ornamental plant from the garden should be done with caution and knowledge, as pesticide use or misidentification can be a risk. But the key point is that there’s no inherent toxicity to people.
In terms of pet safety, aside from the critical issue with cats, daylilies are fairly safe in the landscape. Livestock such as horses or cattle may get digestive upset if they grazed a lot of daylily foliage, but they don’t typically seek it out, and cases of poisoning are very rare compared to other common poisonous plants. Always monitor pets in the garden, and if you are a cat owner, it’s safest to exclude true lilies and daylilies from your plantings. There are plenty of other bright flowers that are cat-safe. In summary: toxic to cats, non-toxic to dogs and humans is the rule for daylilies. Enjoy these flowers in your garden, but do exercise caution if feline friends are around.
🌿 Vase life
Daylilies are not commonly used as cut flowers for bouquets or formal arrangements, primarily because of their short bloom duration. Once a daylily flower is cut and brought indoors, it will usually last just a day, sometimes only part of a day, before wilting. This one-day vase life is an extension of the bloom’s natural pattern (hence the name day-lily). Because of this, florists and event planners rarely include daylilies in designs – for occasions like weddings or long-lasting centerpieces, other flowers tend to be more suitable (see our wedding flowers guide**** for blooms that stand up well in arrangements). However, it’s not entirely impossible to enjoy daylilies as cut flowers if you understand their limitations.
If you want to cut daylilies for indoor enjoyment, the best approach is to cut stems that have multiple buds, ideally with one bud just about to open and several more still tight. Place the stems in water immediately. The bud will open, bloom beautifully for the day, and then wither; you can then gently pluck off that spent flower. The next day, the following bud on the stem may open in turn. In this way, a stalk of daylily buds can give you a few days of sequential blooms in a vase, albeit one bloom at a time. To maximize their vase performance, cut daylilies early in the morning when the buds are plump but not yet open, and use clean, cool water in a vase. Removing any foliage that would sit below the waterline is also important to keep the water clean. You might get 3-5 days of enjoyment as each bud opens on successive days. Still, the overall display will be more sparse compared to flowers that all bloom together in a bouquet.
In informal settings, some gardeners like to float a freshly opened daylily bloom in a shallow bowl of water as a short-lived table decoration – this can be lovely for a dinner party on the same day, for example. But by the next day the flower will have faded. In summary, while daylilies can be used as cut flowers in a pinch, their vase life is very brief. They truly shine best when left on the plant in the garden, where new blooms open each morning. For long-lasting cut arrangements, it’s better to turn to other flowers with multi-day longevity. Think of daylilies as garden stars rather than bouquet staples, and enjoy their transient beauty in situ for the fullest experience.
🐛 Pests and diseases
One reason daylilies are so beloved by gardeners is that they are relatively trouble-free plants. They have few serious pests or diseases compared to many other flowers. That said, no plant is completely immune to problems. Here are some issues that can occasionally affect daylilies:
Pests: Insects that may feed on daylilies include thrips, aphids, and spider mites. Thrips are tiny insects that can infest flower buds and petals, causing them to develop brown specks, streaks, or distorted edges; heavily infested buds might even fail to open. Aphids sometimes cluster on flower stems or undersides of leaves, sucking sap and excreting sticky honeydew, but they are usually only a minor issue and can be washed off. Spider mites can appear in hot, dry weather, causing a fine speckling or bronzing on the leaves as they feed; you might also notice fine webbing if an infestation is severe. Regular rinsing of the foliage with water can deter spider mites. Generally, these pests cause cosmetic damage and do not kill the plant. If needed, insecticidal soap or horticultural oil can control outbreaks in a eco-friendly manner. Slugs and snails are another minor pest – they might chew small holes in daylily leaves or gnaw on flower buds, especially in damp conditions, but mature daylily foliage is somewhat thick and resilient, so slug damage is usually limited. Larger critters can be a concern too: deer and rabbits are known to browse daylilies. Deer, in particular, find daylily flower buds and blooms delectable and can strip a plant overnight, which is heartbreaking during bloom season. Rabbits are less fond of daylilies (the plants are noted to be “rabbit-resistant” in many cases), but a hungry rabbit might still nibble young shoots. In areas with high deer pressure, gardeners may need to fence their daylily beds or use deer repellents to protect the flowers.
Diseases: Daylilies are generally not prone to fatal diseases, but a couple of fungal ailments can affect their foliage. One common issue is daylily leaf streak, caused by the fungus Aureobasidium microstictum. This disease leads to yellowing along the midrib of leaves and brown, streaky lesions; eventually the infected leaves may die back prematurely. It tends to occur in warm, wet weather or where plants are crowded and air circulation is poor. Removing and discarding (do not compost) the affected leaves, and cleaning up dead foliage at the end of the season, can help keep leaf streak in check. Another disease that has garnered attention is daylily rust, caused by Puccinia hemerocallidis. Daylily rust is a fungal infection that produces small yellow-orange spots or pustules mainly on the leaves; if you rub an infected leaf, you might get an orange powdery residue on your fingers (these are the spores). This rust disease arrived in North America in the early 2000s and can spread on infected plants. While it looks unsightly and can weaken the foliage, it usually does not kill the plant outright. Controlling daylily rust involves removing infected leaves, avoiding overhead watering (to keep leaves dry), and sometimes applying fungicidal sprays if it’s a severe outbreak. Not all daylily varieties are equally susceptible – some resistant cultivars exist, and breeders are working on developing more rust-resistant types.
Aside from these, daylilies can occasionally suffer rot (crown rot or root rot) if kept in waterlogged soil or if mulch is packed too tightly around the crown in warm, wet weather. Good planting practices and drainage prevent most of those issues. In sum, the pests and diseases impacting daylilies are relatively minor and often manageable with basic care. Keeping the garden clean (removing spent foliage and blooms), ensuring proper spacing and sun (to reduce fungal issues), and monitoring for insects will go a long way. In comparison to many other flowering plants, daylilies stand out as robust and low-maintenance, seldom troubled by the plagues that can afflict more delicate species.
FAQs
What’s the difference between daylilies and true lilies?
Daylilies (Hemerocallis) and true lilies (Lilium, such as Asiatic or Oriental lilies) are different in several ways. True lilies grow from bulbs and have a single erect stem with multiple blossoms that can last over a week each. Daylilies, on the other hand, grow from fleshy root crowns (not true bulbs) and produce clumps of leaves with flower stalks arising from the base. Each daylily bloom lasts only one day. Additionally, daylily leaves are long and strap-like, emerging from the ground, whereas true lilies have leaves that grow along the upright stem. Taxonomically, they belong to different families. True lilies are in the lily family (Liliaceae), while daylilies are now in the asphodel family (Asphodelaceae). In practical terms, daylilies are generally easier to grow and more tolerant of tough conditions, while many true lilies can be a bit more demanding and are often used as cut flowers for their longer-lasting blooms.
How do I propagate or divide daylilies?
The easiest way to propagate daylilies is by dividing them. To divide a daylily, first wait for an appropriate time – either early spring as new growth starts, or late summer after flowering has finished (early fall works too). Dig up the entire clump using a shovel or garden fork, being careful to get under the roots. Shake off or wash away excess soil so you can see the structure of the plant. You’ll notice the clump is composed of many “fans” of leaves. Gently pull these apart, or cut through the crown with a knife if the clump is very dense. Ensure each division has at least a few leaves (fans) and some healthy roots attached. You might break a large clump into chunks that are about the size of a softball or larger – each chunk can be planted to form a new clump. Replant the divisions at the same depth they were growing before (with the base of the leaves just at the soil surface), in well-prepared soil. Water them in thoroughly. The divided plants may take a season to re-establish, but after that they should resume strong blooming. Aside from division, you can also propagate daylilies from seed, but growing from seed is slow and the offspring may not resemble the parent plant. Division is fast and yields mature plants that will bloom much sooner (often the next season). A single vigorous daylily clump can be divided into many new plants, so it’s an economical way to expand your garden or share plants with friends.
Can daylilies grow in shade?
Daylilies can tolerate some shade, but their blooming will be reduced in low-light conditions. Ideally, daylilies should be planted where they receive full sun (6 or more hours of direct sun per day) or at least a half day of sun. In partial shade – for example, morning sun and afternoon shade – many daylilies will still perform adequately, especially if the shade is light or dappled. You might notice they produce fewer flowers than those in brighter spots, and the stems may stretch a bit as the plants reach for more light. In heavy shade (such as under a dense tree canopy or on the north side of a structure with almost no direct sun), daylilies will survive but likely won’t bloom much, if at all. The foliage will remain, but one of the main appeals – the flowers – will be scarce. If you have a shady garden and still want to try daylilies, choose varieties known for tolerating shade (some older orange or yellow varieties seem a bit more shade-flexible) and ensure the soil and moisture are optimal. Keep expectations modest in terms of flowering. Often, it’s better to locate daylilies in the sunnier parts of your garden and reserve the full shade areas for truly shade-loving plants. In summary, a little bit of shade is fine for daylilies, but full sun is what really makes them thrive and bloom abundantly.
Why are my daylilies not blooming?
If your daylilies are healthy in foliage but not producing flowers, a few factors could be at play. First, consider sunlight – as mentioned above, insufficient light is a common cause of poor blooming. Make sure the plants are getting enough sun each day. Second, think about the age and crowding of the plants. Daylilies that have grown in the same spot for many years without division can become overcrowded, which can reduce bloom quantity. If you see a large mass of foliage with few scapes, it may be time to dig and divide the clump to reinvigorate it. Another factor is nutrient balance. Daylilies are not heavy feeders, but they do appreciate some nutrition. If the soil is very poor, or if you have been using a high-nitrogen fertilizer (like one meant for lawns), you might get lots of leaf growth and few flowers. A more balanced fertilizer, or one slightly higher in phosphorus (the middle number) can encourage blooming. Feeding daylilies in early spring and again right after bloom with a general garden fertilizer or compost can help. Water stress can also cause a lack of blooms – a severe drought or under-watering during the bud formation period might cause plants to abort flowering for that season. Conversely, if daylily buds form but then disappear, you might have a pest issue such as deer eating the buds (check if the buds are nipped off). Finally, consider the cultivar and its climate suitability. Some daylilies that bloom well in one region might perform poorly in another (for instance, a variety bred in the South might not flower well in far northern climates, or vice versa, due to differences in day length or winter chilling requirements). If everything else seems fine, it could simply be that the plant needs a bit more time to settle in – new divisions sometimes focus on establishing roots their first year and then bloom the second year. By addressing these factors – ensuring sun, dividing when needed, checking feeding and watering practices, and guarding against bud-eating critters – you can usually get your daylilies back to blooming generously.
Do daylilies spread aggressively or become invasive?
In general, modern hybrid daylilies do not spread aggressively in the sense of invading other parts of the garden. They form expanding clumps that get larger in diameter, but they usually stay where you planted them. Many gardeners actually wish their daylilies would spread faster! The plants will gradually increase in size, and you can divide and replant sections elsewhere if you want to “spread” them around the yard. The idea of daylilies being invasive likely comes from the common wild orange daylily (Hemerocallis fulva). That particular species, which is often seen growing along roads and ditches, can indeed expand vigorously via underground rhizomes in certain conditions. It was widely planted decades ago and has naturalized in many areas, sometimes forming large colonies in the wild. H. fulva can be a bit invasive in a wild setting and is hard to eradicate once established, because even a tiny piece of its tuberous root left behind can regrow. But most named cultivars sold in nurseries are hybrids that do not run with long rhizomes – they stay in defined clumps and are quite mannersly. So if you plant, say, a pink repeat-blooming daylily in your flower bed, it’s not going to send runners all over your garden. Over several years it will make a larger clump (which can be divided if you like), but it won’t “take over.” In summary, daylilies are easy to grow and multiply, but with the exception of that old orange roadside lily, they aren’t invasive spreaders. They coexist nicely with other perennials. Just be aware if you’re obtaining daylilies from an old patch in the wild or an abandoned homestead, you might be dealing with H. fulva, which can be rambunctious. Otherwise, enjoy your daylilies and feel free to plant more – they’ll mind their own business in the spot you give them.
Are daylilies poisonous to cats or other pets?
Yes – daylilies are extremely poisonous to cats. In fact, along with true lilies, they are among the plants most dangerous to our feline friends. If a cat eats any part of a daylily plant or even licks the pollen, it can cause acute kidney failure. This is a medical emergency for a cat. Symptoms might start with vomiting and sluggish behavior within hours of ingestion, and can progress to serious kidney issues within a day or two. If you suspect your cat has chewed on or ingested a daylily, seek veterinary care immediately; quick treatment can sometimes save the cat’s life. On the other hand, daylilies do not have the same effect on dogs. They are generally considered non-toxic to dogs – a dog might get a mild stomach upset from eating a large amount of any plant material, but daylilies are not known to cause the kind of lethal poisoning in dogs that they do in cats. They are also not toxic to people; as mentioned, humans can even eat the flowers in certain recipes. Nonetheless, it’s always wise to discourage pets from grazing on garden plants. If you have cats, the safest route is to avoid planting daylilies or keep cats completely away from the area where daylilies grow. Many cat owners instead choose cat-safe plants for their gardens and containers. In summary: cats and daylilies don’t mix – be very cautious. Dogs and other animals are generally safe around daylilies, but monitor any pet that likes to chew plants.
Interesting tips
- Edible use: Unbeknownst to many gardeners, daylily flowers and buds are edible. In Chinese cuisine, the dried flower buds of daylilies (often the golden-yellow Hemerocallis lilioasphodelus) are called “golden needles” and are used in soups and stir-fries for their pleasant texture and mild flavor. You can also batter and fry fresh daylily blossoms as a seasonal delicacy. Always be sure no pesticides or harmful chemicals have been used on plants if you plan to taste them.
- “Ditch lily” history: The ubiquitous orange daylily often seen along roadsides is Hemerocallis fulva, nicknamed the “ditch lily.” It earned this name by thriving in ditches with little care. This hardy old-fashioned plant was brought to America by settlers and became naturalized. Its endurance in the wild showcases how tough daylilies can be – they tolerate poor soil, roadside salt, and competition from weeds, yet still put out cheerful orange blooms year after year.
- Reblooming marvel: The introduction of the dwarf reblooming daylily ‘Stella de Oro’ in the 1970s revolutionized daylily landscaping. Unlike traditional daylilies that had one main bloom season, ‘Stella de Oro’ flowers continuously through the summer on a compact 1-foot-tall plant. Its success (and that of subsequent rebloomers) means you can now plant daylilies that provide color all season long, not just for a few weeks. It’s a great choice for edging and containers due to its small size and constant golden blooms.
- Companion planting: Daylilies are excellent companions in the flower garden. For example, plant daylilies in front of spring-blooming bulbs like tulips or daffodils – as the bulb foliage dies back in early summer, the daylily’s lush leaves will hide the fading leaves, and then the daylily’s flowers will take center stage. Similarly, daylilies pair well with early-flowering shrubs like lilacs or forsythia. When the shrubs finish their spring show, daylilies kick in with summer color. This succession planting ensures a continuously attractive garden bed.
- Night bloomers: Most daylilies open in daytime, but a few unusual types are nocturnal. These night-blooming daylilies (such as Hemerocallis citrina) unfurl their pale yellow flowers in the late evening and release a lovely fragrance after dusk. They stay open through the night and close by the following morning. Night-blooming varieties add a special touch to moonlight gardens and can be enjoyed during summer evenings. Plant one near a patio or window – you might catch a hint of sweet scent on a warm night.
- Continuous color with annuals: Because daylilies have a peak bloom period, you can interplant them with long-blooming annuals or perennials to keep your garden vibrant all season. For instance, mixing daylilies with colorful annual zinnias or with perennials like black-eyed Susans and purple coneflowers creates a dynamic display. The daylilies provide early-to-mid summer impact, while the other flowers carry on into late summer and fall. Plus, the bold, composite flowers of zinnias and the daisy family complement the elegant trumpet shapes of daylilies, offering textural contrast in the garden.