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Verbena
Verbena is a diverse genus of flowering plants known for its vibrant, long-lasting blooms and adaptability in gardens. Often called vervain, this group includes both tender annuals and hardy perennials grown for their clusters of bright, pink, purple, red, white flowers, and even some blue flowers. Verbena plants typically have a low, spreading habit or an upright, airy form depending on the species. Gardeners value verbena for its long bloom time (often from late spring through fall) and its ability to thrive in sunny, warm conditions. Verbena is commonly used in borders, cottage garden plantings, and hanging baskets, where trailing varieties cascade gracefully. Both annual and perennial types of verbena are relatively easy to grow, making them popular for adding season-long color and attracting butterflies and hummingbirds. In cooler climates, verbena is usually treated as an annual, while in warm regions it can behave as a short-lived perennial returning each year. Overall, verbena’s showy blooms, drought tolerance, and versatility have earned it a place in many gardens and butterfly garden designs.
🌱 Taxonomy and origin
Verbena belongs to the Verbenaceae family, and the genus contains roughly 250 species of herbaceous or semi-woody plants. The botanical name Verbena is rooted in Latin, where it referred to a sacred plant – an indication of the esteem in which these plants were held in ancient times. Common names for various species include vervain and purple top (for taller types), reflecting traditional uses and appearance. Verbena species are native mainly to the Americas, with many originating in South America and the warmer parts of North America. A few species, such as the medicinal common vervain (Verbena officinalis), are native to Europe and Asia. This broad native range explains the genus’s diversity: some verbenas evolved in prairies and deserts, giving them heat and drought tolerance, while others come from temperate regions. Garden verbena hybrids (often labeled Verbena x hybrida) were developed in Europe in the 18th and 19th centuries by crossing wild species to create more colorful, floriferous bedding plants. Today’s garden verbenas are the result of this breeding and may not have a specific “origin” in the wild, but their parent species hail from places like South America (e.g. Verbena peruviana) and the Mediterranean. In summary, Verbena’s taxonomy highlights a genus of annuals and perennials with a rich heritage: botanically diverse, historically significant (once considered a “holy herb”), and geographically widespread from the New World to the Old World.
🌸 Bloom time
Verbena is prized for its exceptionally long bloom period. Most verbena varieties begin flowering in late spring to early summer and continue to produce blooms through the heat of summer and into fall, often up until the first frost. In warm climates without frost, some verbena can bloom nearly year-round. The individual flowers are small and star-shaped, borne in dense clusters (sometimes called umbels or spikes) that open over the course of several weeks. Each cluster of blooms can last about 2 to 3 weeks, and plants continually produce new clusters as long as conditions are favorable. Annual verbena hybrids typically start blooming soon after planting and keep going continuously if spent blooms are removed. Many modern varieties are self-cleaning (dropping old flowers on their own), which means minimal deadheading is needed to sustain flowering. Perennial species, like blue vervain (Verbena hastata) or purple top vervain (Verbena bonariensis), might begin blooming slightly later in early summer, but they also continue well into autumn. Gardeners can maximize the bloom time by providing plenty of sun and occasional pruning – a mid-season trim or “shearing back” can refresh the plants and encourage a flush of new buds. With proper care, verbena ensures months of color, far outlasting many other summer flowers. This extensive blooming season makes verbena especially valuable for continuous garden interest and for supporting pollinators over a long period.
📏 Height and spread
The height and spread of verbena depend on the specific type or cultivar, as this genus includes a range of growth habits from low groundcovers to tall, upright plants. Annual verbena hybrids and trailing varieties tend to be low-growing. They typically reach about 6 to 12 inches tall (approximately 15 to 30 cm) and can spread or trail 1 to 3 feet wide (30 to 90 cm). These mat-forming types, sometimes called moss verbena or trailing verbena, are excellent as ground cover plants or for spilling over the sides of containers and hanging baskets. In contrast, perennial verbena species often have an upright habit. For example, Verbena bonariensis (tall or purpletop verbena) grows on slender, erect stems about 3 to 4 feet tall (0.9 to 1.2 m) but with a narrow spread of only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm), giving it a see-through, airy presence in the back of a border. Another species, Verbena hastata (blue vervain), can even reach 4 to 6 feet tall (1.2 to 1.8 m) under ideal conditions, with a more columnar form. There are also intermediate forms, such as clump-forming verbenas like Verbena canadensis (rose verbena), which grow 8 to 12 inches tall and spread 2 feet or more. In general, verbena plants have a moderate growth rate and will achieve their full size in one season. Trailing and groundcover types will fill in an area densely, while upright types remain more singular or clumping. When planning a garden layout, it’s important to note these differences: low annual verbena works well at the front of beds or in between larger plants, whereas taller perennial verbena adds height and can sway above shorter neighbors. Proper spacing (usually around 12 to 18 inches apart for most varieties) will ensure that plants have good air circulation and enough room to reach their mature spread without overcrowding.
☀️ Light
Full sun is essential for growing verbena successfully. These plants flourish with abundant sunshine, requiring at least 6 hours of direct sun per day, and ideally 8 to 10 hours for the best flowering. In shadier locations, verbena tends to produce fewer blooms and may develop a leggier (stretched) habit as it reaches for light. Inadequate sun is one of the most common reasons for sparse flowering or a decline in plant vigor. Both annual and perennial verbenas are adapted to sunny habitats – many originate from prairies, open fields, or Mediterranean climates where intense light is the norm. Therefore, when choosing a planting site, pick one that isn’t overshadowed by taller plants, fences, or buildings for long parts of the day. In very hot summer regions, verbena can tolerate sun all day but may appreciate a bit of late afternoon shade to prevent flower scorch or mid-summer stress, though generally they handle heat well. If growing verbena in containers, place the pots in the brightest spot you have. Insufficient light will not only reduce blooming but can also make the plant more prone to diseases like mildew due to slower drying of foliage. In summary, plenty of sun = plenty of flowers. To enjoy the fullest, most vibrant display that verbena can offer, ensure it basks in bright light for the majority of the day.
💧 Water
Verbena has moderate water needs, preferring consistent moisture but never soggy conditions. When first planted or when seedlings are young, keep the soil evenly moist to help establish strong roots – watering when the top inch of soil feels dry. Once established, verbena is relatively drought tolerant and can handle short dry spells, especially the perennial species that often originate from dry grasslands or rocky areas. As a general guideline, aim to provide about 1/2 to 1 inch of water per week (roughly 1.25 to 2.5 cm), whether from rainfall or irrigation, during the growing season. In hot summer weather, container-grown verbenas may need water more frequently (possibly every day or two) since pots dry out faster than garden beds. It’s best to water deeply at the base of the plant rather than using overhead sprinklers; this keeps foliage dry and helps prevent fungal issues like powdery mildew. Avoid overwatering, as verbena does not like waterlogged or swampy soil – too much moisture can lead to root rot and other diseases. Watch the plants for signs of water stress: wilting or dry, crispy leaves indicate it’s time to water, while yellowing leaves or a rotten base can signal too much water. Mulching around the base of perennial verbenas with a light layer of straw or compost can help conserve soil moisture in summer (while also suppressing weeds), but be careful not to pile mulch directly against the stems. In summary, give verbena a regular drink when the soil dries out, but let the soil drain in between – they appreciate moisture but won’t tolerate “wet feet.” Striking this balance will keep your verbenas blooming happily without the risk of fungal problems or drought stress.
🌍 Soil and pH
Verbena thrives in well-drained soil and is not overly fussy about soil type as long as drainage is good. In nature, many verbena species grow in gritty, rocky, or sandy soils. In the garden, they do well in average soil and can even handle poorer soils that might stress fussier plants. The key is to avoid heavy clay or any area where water tends to sit after rain. If your soil is clay-heavy or compacts easily, it’s beneficial to loosen it and incorporate amendments like compost, leaf mold, or grit to improve aeration and drainage. Regarding soil pH, verbena prefers slightly acidic to neutral conditions. An ideal pH range is roughly 5.8 to 7.2, but the plants are fairly adaptable and will grow in slightly alkaline soil as well (up to around pH 7.5) as long as nutrients are available. Extremely alkaline soils might cause nutrient uptake issues (like iron chlorosis, seen as yellowing leaves), but this is not commonly a problem with verbena. It’s usually not necessary to adjust soil pH specifically for verbena – typical garden loam or sandy loam falls in a fine range. Ensure the planting site has been cleared of weeds and consider working a slow-release balanced fertilizer into the soil at planting time to give young plants a boost. However, avoid over-fertilizing or soils that are too rich in nitrogen, as this can lead to lush foliage at the expense of flowers. A moderately fertile soil is ideal: enough nutrients to support continuous blooming, but not so much that the plant puts all its energy into green growth. In containers, use a quality all-purpose potting mix with good drainage. If the mix is heavy, lighten it with a bit of coarse sand or perlite. Good soil preparation will set the stage for healthy verbena plants that bloom profusely and resist disease.
❄️ USDA hardiness
USDA Hardiness Zones for verbena vary widely because the genus encompasses species from tropical to temperate regions. Most garden verbena hybrids (annual verbena) are treated as annuals in any climate colder than Zone 8. They are typically winter hardy only in Zones 8 to 11, meaning they can survive year-round in mild southern or coastal climates where winter frosts are light or absent. In these zones, an “annual” verbena may actually behave as a perennial, returning for a few years until its natural lifespan ends. Some newer hybrid series, such as the ‘Superbena’ types, have improved cold tolerance and might perennialize in Zone 7 given protection, but generally freezing temperatures will kill the top growth. Perennial verbena species offer greater cold hardiness. For example, Verbena bonariensis (tall purpletop verbena) is reliably hardy in Zone 7 to 11, and may survive in Zone 6 with heavy mulching or if it self-seeds. The North American native Verbena hastata (blue vervain) and some cultivars of Verbena canadensis can withstand much colder winters – hardy to about Zone 3 or 4 – making them true perennials even in northern climates. Another trailing type, sometimes classified in genus Glandularia (moss verbena, Glandularia pulchella), is hardy to roughly Zone 7 but often grown as an annual elsewhere. When growing verbena, it’s important to know which type you have: If it’s a hybrid annual verbena from the garden center, expect to replant it each year in zones below 8. If it’s a known hardy species or cultivar, it may come back from its roots in spring after winter dormancy. In borderline zones (like 7 or 8), providing a layer of mulch over perennial verbena crowns in late fall can help them overwinter by buffering soil temperature. Gardeners in cold zones can also treat perennial verbenas as annuals or overwinter them indoors (digging and potting them up or taking cuttings) to preserve them for the next year. In summary, verbena’s hardiness is species-dependent: it ranges from tropical warmth-lovers to a few hardy champs that tolerate freezing winters. Always check the specific USDA zone range for your verbena variety to know if it will survive the winter in your area.
🌼 Propagation and longevity
Propagation of verbena can be accomplished through seeds, cuttings, or occasionally division, with some methods preferred for certain types: – Seeds: Many verbena species and older varieties can be grown from seed. If collecting seeds from your plants, keep in mind hybrid verbenas (Verbena x hybrida) may not come true (their offspring can differ in color or vigor). Purchased seeds of named varieties are produced under controlled conditions. Verbena seeds often have a hard coat and can benefit from a brief cold stratification – for example, placing seeds in a moist paper towel inside a plastic bag in the refrigerator for about a week before sowing. Sow seeds indoors 8 to 12 weeks before the last frost (late winter), as they can take 2-4 weeks to germinate. Press the seeds lightly into a seed-starting mix without burying them deeply; they need light to germinate. Keep the medium moist and warm (around 70-75°F, or 21-24°C). Once seedlings have a few true leaves, they can be transplanted into individual pots and later hardened off for the garden. Some perennial verbenas, like Verbena bonariensis, readily self-seed in the garden, popping up volunteer seedlings the next season if spent flowers are left in place. – Cuttings: Verbena is very amenable to propagation from stem cuttings, which is often the best way to propagate favored cultivars and is commonly used to carry plants through winter. To take verbena cuttings, snip a healthy, non-flowering shoot about 4 to 6 inches long (10-15 cm). Remove the lower leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional but helpful), and insert it into a small pot of moistened, free-draining rooting mix (such as half potting soil, half perlite or sand). Keep the cutting in bright indirect light and high humidity (you can cover it loosely with a plastic bag or place in a propagation dome). In a few weeks, roots should form. Overwinter rooted cuttings indoors in pots on a sunny windowsill or under grow lights, and plant them out after the last frost. This technique is commonly used for the popular trailing verbena varieties and ensures clones of the parent plant. – Division: Most verbenas do not lend themselves well to division because of their growth habit (many are not clumping plants). However, some spreading perennial types (like Verbena canadensis) can occasionally be divided in spring if the plant has formed a thick mat; cut through and separate rooted sections to replant. Division is less common than seeds or cuttings for this genus.
In terms of longevity, even perennial verbenas are often relatively short-lived. Many hardy verbena plants live for around 2 to 3 years before declining. They might get woody, produce fewer flowers, or succumb to winter damage after a few seasons. Gardeners often treat these perennials as self-replenishing – allowing them to self-seed or periodically propagating new cuttings to replace aging plants. Annual verbena varieties complete their life cycle in one growing season, although in warm climates they might persist into a second year. If you notice your perennial verbena thinning out or becoming less vigorous after a couple of years, it’s a good practice to propagate a few new ones (or buy replacements) to keep the display going. Fortunately, because verbena grows quickly, even plants started from seed or cuttings will bloom in their first year. By employing propagation methods and recognizing that individual plants may not last forever, you can maintain a continuous presence of vibrant verbena in your garden for many years.
👃 Fragrance
Most garden verbenas are not particularly known for fragrance – their allure lies more in visual impact than scent. The majority of verbena flowers have little to no detectable floral fragrance to the human nose. If you sniff a cluster of common garden verbena blooms, you might notice a very faint sweet or herbal scent, but it is usually quite subtle. This lack of strong scent is not a drawback in the garden since verbena still attracts plenty of pollinators through its bright colors and nectar. It also makes verbena blooms suitable for those who are sensitive to strong floral perfumes. There is, however, a notable exception in the extended verbena family: lemon verbena. Lemon verbena (Aloysia citrodora, sometimes classified outside the Verbena genus) is a closely related plant famous for its citrus fragrance. Unlike ornamental verbenas, lemon verbena’s leaves (rather than its small white flowers) release a powerful lemony scent when crushed. Gardeners often grow it as an herb for tea and potpourri. While lemon verbena is technically a different genus, it’s commonly associated with verbenas and shares the family traits. In terms of true verbena species, a few wild types have slight herbal aromas in their foliage – for example, some vervains have been used in traditional medicine and might have a mild bitter or astringent smell when the leaves are bruised. But by and large, if you are looking for sweet-smelling flowers, verbena will not be your top choice (consider fragrant blooms like lavender or sweet alyssum instead). On the upside, the lack of strong fragrance in verbena flowers means they won’t attract as many unwanted pests and they won’t overwhelm other scented plants nearby. In mixed plantings, verbena’s neutral scent profile allows it to pair nicely with highly fragrant neighbors, contributing color without muddling the aromatic palette of the garden.
⚠️ Toxicity and pet safety
Verbena is generally considered a safe, non-toxic plant for humans and common household pets, but there are some important nuances. The ornamental verbena varieties (those typically grown in gardens and containers) are not known to be poisonous if touched or ingested in small amounts. In fact, Verbena officinalis (common vervain) has a history of use in herbal medicine (though any medicinal use should be approached with caution and guidance). If a curious child or pet were to nibble on a few verbena leaves or flowers, it would likely result in little to no harm – at most, possibly a mild stomach upset. The ASPCA lists certain types of verbena, such as sand verbena, as non-toxic to cats and dogs. However, the situation is complicated by the existence of related plants often called “verbena” that are toxic. For example, lemon verbena (Aloysia citrodora), a fragrant herb related to verbena, can cause gastric distress in animals if large quantities are eaten, and is considered mildly toxic to dogs and cats. More significantly, lantana (sometimes nicknamed “shrub verbena”) is a common flowering shrub in the verbena family that is poisonous to pets and livestock – but lantana is a different genus entirely. It’s important not to confuse true verbenas with lantanas. True verbena plants (genus Verbena) do not contain the potent toxins that lantanas do.
For pet safety, it’s wise to observe general precautions: prevent dogs, cats, or other animals from grazing on ornamentals, and if you know your pet tends to chew plants, consider placing verbena in areas less accessible to them. While a taste of verbena likely won’t cause more than minor digestive irritation, consuming any plant in large amounts could lead to vomiting or diarrhea. If a pet shows signs of distress after plant ingestion, consult a veterinarian. Gardeners should also be aware that some people use the term “verbena” loosely – ensure that any plant called verbena that you introduce to your garden is a Verbena species or a cultivar thereof, and not a lantana labeled under an old common name. In summary, ornamental verbenas are generally pet-friendly and non-toxic, making them a good choice for gardens frequented by pets and children. Just be mindful of related plants and encourage safe gardening practices to keep curious nibblers from overindulging in any plant.
🌿 Vase life
Verbena is not a traditional cut flower staple, but certain types can be quite charming in arrangements, and they offer an airy, wildflower accent. If you plan to use verbena as a cut flower, the vase life you can expect is moderate – typically around 5 to 7 days for fresh verbena stems, with proper care. The best candidates for cutting are the taller perennial species such as Verbena bonariensis (tall verbena). This plant’s long, wiry stems topped with clusters of purple blooms make a delicate filler in bouquets, adding height and a pop of color without overwhelming other flowers. To maximize vase life, cut verbena stems in the morning when they are well-hydrated. Choose stems where about 70-80% of the tiny flowers in the cluster have opened (if too many are still buds, they may not all open after cutting; if all are open, some may start to fade soon). Use sharp scissors or pruners to make a clean cut. Immediately place the stems in clean, lukewarm water. Strip off any leaves that would be below the water line in your vase to reduce bacteria buildup.
Using a floral preservative (the packets that often come with cut flowers) in the water can help extend the life of verbena blooms by a couple of days, as it provides nutrients and limits microbial growth. Change the water every 2 days, trimming a small bit off the stem ends each time to keep the uptake channels open. In the vase, verbena’s tiny blooms will gradually drop off as they fade, so it’s a good idea to arrange them where falling petals won’t cause a mess, or simply be prepared to tidy the arrangement every so often. Note that trailing or groundcover verbena types generally have short, branching stems that don’t work well for bouquets. Those are best enjoyed in the garden. The cut flower use of verbena is somewhat specialized, often seen in cottage-style arrangements or florist designs seeking a natural meadow look. When paired with larger flowers like roses or peonies, verbena adds a lovely contrast in texture. While the vase life isn’t exceptionally long, the fact that verbena often blooms prolifically means you can harvest a few stems every week without diminishing your garden’s display. Overall, expect about a week of enjoyment from verbena cuttings – a respectable performance for a delicate garden bloom.
🐛 Pests and diseases
Verbena plants are generally robust and easy to care for, but they can occasionally encounter some pests and diseases, especially if grown in less-than-ideal conditions. One of the most common issues with verbena is powdery mildew, a fungal disease that appears as a white, powdery coating on leaves. Mildew tends to strike in humid weather or when plants are crowded with poor air circulation. To prevent it, give verbena adequate spacing and avoid watering overhead; water at the soil level to keep foliage dry. If powdery mildew appears, removing affected leaves and applying a fungicidal spray (like a horticultural oil or sulfur-based fungicide) can help manage it, though many modern verbena varieties have been bred for improved mildew resistance.
In terms of pests, verbena may attract a few usual suspects: – Aphids: Small sap-sucking insects that might cluster on new growth or flower buds. They can cause distorted growth or sticky honeydew residue. A strong water spray or insecticidal soap usually keeps aphids in check. – Spider mites: These tiny mites thrive in hot, dry conditions and can cause a stippled, bronzed look to leaves with fine webbing underneath. If leaves start looking speckled and dusty, inspect for mites. Increasing humidity around plants and using insecticidal soap or neem oil can control spider mite outbreaks. – Thrips: These microscopic insects can feed on verbena flowers and leaves, sometimes causing streaked or discolored petals. Thrips are harder to spot; yellow sticky traps and spinosad-based insect treatments can help if they become a problem. – Whiteflies: Occasionally, whiteflies might hover around verbena, particularly if plants are under stress. They can be controlled with yellow sticky traps or soaps as well. – Caterpillars or beetles: Not commonly, but sometimes foliage-chewing pests like armyworms or japanese beetles might take a bite of verbena leaves. Hand-picking or appropriate organic insecticides can deal with these if seen.
Another issue to watch for is root rot or stem rot, which typically results from poor drainage and overwatering. If you notice the base of the plant turning black or mushy, or the plant suddenly wilting despite moist soil, rot could be the culprit. Sadly, affected plants usually need to be removed. To avoid rot, ensure your verbena is planted in well-draining soil and that containers have good drainage holes. Also be cautious with over-fertilization – while verbena appreciates some feeding, overly lush growth can be more susceptible to pests like aphids and diseases.
Deer and rabbits tend to leave verbena alone (the rough, aromatic foliage is not very palatable to them), so in many regions verbena is considered deer-resistant, which is a bonus for gardeners contending with wildlife. However, if food is scarce, deer might nibble anything, so “resistant” doesn’t mean “deer-proof.”
By keeping your verbenas healthy – full sun, appropriate watering, and airflow – you will minimize most problems. Should an issue arise, address it promptly. With good cultural care, verbena plants will remain relatively pest-free and reward you with continuous blooms. Verbena, with its resilient nature, usually bounces back from minor troubles, ensuring that your garden stays bright and lively through the growing season.
FAQs
Is Verbena an annual or a perennial?
It depends on the species and your climate. Some verbenas are true perennials that can survive winter and live for multiple years, especially in warmer regions. Other types are treated as annuals. Most of the colorful trailing verbenas sold in garden centers are tender perennials hardy to about USDA Zone 8 or 9 – in colder zones, they will not survive the frost and so are grown as annuals (planted each spring). On the other hand, certain verbena species (like Verbena bonariensis or Verbena canadensis) are perennial and can overwinter in zones as low as 7 or even 5, coming back from their roots in spring. There are even native vervains (such as Verbena hastata) hardy to zone 3 or 4. So, verbena can be annual or perennial. In practice, if you live in a region with freezing winters, assume your verbena is an annual unless you know it’s a hardy type. In warm winter areas, verbenas often act as short-lived perennials. Many gardeners replant or propagate their favorite verbena each year regardless, since even perennial ones may decline after 2-3 years.
How do you keep Verbena blooming all summer?
To encourage non-stop blooms on your verbena through summer and into fall, provide optimal care and a bit of maintenance. First, make sure the plant is getting plenty of sunlight (at least 6 hours a day) and grown in well-drained soil – these conditions alone will maximize flowering. Next, implement a regular feeding routine: applying a balanced, slow-release fertilizer monthly or a diluted liquid fertilizer every few weeks helps fuel continuous bloom production. Water consistently (about 1 inch per week, adjusting for weather) but avoid waterlogging; drought stress can cause flowering to stall. Deadheading spent flowers is beneficial for some varieties – removing faded blooms tells the plant to set new buds instead of seeds. Many modern hybrid verbenas are self-cleaning and drop old blooms on their own, but you can still pinch off any brown, dried clusters to keep the plant looking tidy. Perhaps the most effective trick is to shear back or lightly trim the plant in mid-summer. When you notice a lull in flowering or the plant getting leggy, use scissors to trim about one-quarter of the plant’s height (and width, if sprawling) – basically giving it a “haircut.” This encourages a flush of fresh growth and new flower buds for late summer. After trimming, feed and water the verbena to support its regrowth. Within a week or two, you should see new buds forming. By early fall, you might repeat a light deadheading or trim to get the last round of blooms before frost. With these practices, many gardeners report their verbena blooming profusely from May right up until October (or year-round where climate permits).
Can Verbena grow in pots or hanging baskets?
Yes, absolutely. Verbena is excellent in containers and hanging baskets, especially the low-growing or trailing varieties. In fact, annual verbena hybrids are commonly used as “spiller” plants in mixed patio pots, window boxes, and hanging baskets – they will drape over the edges with a cascade of flowers. When growing verbena in a container, choose a pot with good drainage holes and use a high-quality potting mix that doesn’t stay waterlogged. A mix with some perlite or coarse material helps ensure roots won’t sit in soggy soil. Place the container in full sun for best flowering. Container verbena may need a bit more frequent watering than in-ground plantings, as pots can dry out quickly in hot weather – check the soil moisture regularly and water when the top inch feels dry. Adding a slow-release fertilizer to the potting mix at planting time or using a regular liquid feeding schedule is important, because container plants can leach out nutrients with frequent watering. In hanging baskets, verbena pairs nicely with other sun-loving flowers like petunias, calibrachoa, or zinnias. Its trailing blooms also stand well on their own as a solo planting. One thing to monitor in baskets is that the weight of the plant doesn’t cause the potting mix to pull away from the sides of the basket (which can lead to water runoff); keep it evenly moist. Also, in the intensified sun and wind exposure of a hanging basket, daily watering might be required in summer. Fortunately, verbena’s somewhat drought-tolerant nature means it can bounce back from the occasional dry out, but for continuous bloom it shouldn’t be allowed to wilt frequently. At the end of the season, if frost threatens, you can try to bring pots of verbena indoors to a sunny window to prolong bloom, or take cuttings for next year as mentioned above. Overall, verbena is versatile and well-suited for container gardening – just give it sun, enough water, and feed it, and it will perform beautifully in pots or baskets.
Do you need to deadhead Verbena?
Deadheading (removing spent flowers) is a useful practice for many flowering plants, and verbena can benefit from it, but whether it’s strictly “needed” depends on the variety. Many newer verbena hybrids have been bred to be self-cleaning, meaning the old blooms dry up and fall off on their own, and the plant continues blooming without manual intervention. If you grow one of these types, you might notice the plant stays fairly neat and keeps blooming continuously, and you won’t have to deadhead each little flower cluster. However, with some verbena (particularly older varieties or hardy species), deadheading can prolong the bloom period. If you see dried, brown clusters of spent flowers hanging on, it’s a good idea to pinch or snip them off. This prevents the plant from putting energy into seed production and encourages it to produce more buds. Even with self-cleaning types, a mid-season shear (cutting back the whole plant by 1/4 to 1/3) effectively removes all the old growth and spent blooms, accomplishing a large-scale deadheading that results in fresh growth and flowers. In summary, you don’t have to deadhead verbena in many cases, but doing so (or periodically shearing the plant) will keep it looking tidy and can stimulate even more flowering. If you enjoy grooming your plants, go ahead and pinch off the old flowers whenever you notice them. If you prefer low-maintenance, choose verbena varieties labeled as continuous-blooming or self-cleaning, and you’ll still get a great performance with minimal deadheading.
Do Verbena flowers attract butterflies or hummingbirds?
Yes – verbena is excellent for pollinators, and you’ll often see butterflies, bees, and even hummingbirds visiting the flowers. The nectar-rich blooms of verbena are particularly attractive to butterflies such as monarchs, swallowtails, and painted ladies. In fact, tall verbena (Verbena bonariensis) is famously one of the top butterfly magnet plants; its lilac-purple clusters atop swaying stems seem to be the perfect height and structure for butterflies to land on and sip nectar. Hummingbirds are also drawn to verbena, especially red, pink, or purple varieties. While verbena’s individual flowers are small, they are grouped in clusters that provide a substantial nectar source when taken as a whole. The continuous blooming habit of verbena means nectar is available through a long season, which is great for pollinators. If you’re planting a pollinator garden, including some verbena will ensure a consistent food source. Just remember to avoid using pesticides on or near verbena if you want to protect those visiting butterflies and bees. Also, planting verbena in masses or repeating clumps can create a more noticeable target for butterflies. Whether in a pot on your balcony or a flower bed, you can expect these lively visitors to frequent your verbena blooms. It’s a delightful sight to watch – another reason verbena is valued, beyond its garden beauty, for the lively activity it brings to the landscape.
Will deer eat Verbena plants?
Generally, verbena is considered deer-resistant. Deer tend to avoid plants that have aromatic foliage or a rough texture, and many verbena have slightly hairy, coarse leaves with a faint herbal smell, making them unappealing to a deer’s palate. Garden experience and even formal lists (such as Rutgers University’s deer-resistant plant lists) often put verbena in the category of “seldom severely damaged” by deer. This means that while deer usually bypass verbena in favor of tastier options, they might nibble on it occasionally, especially if food is scarce and they are very hungry. Young tender growth on any plant can sometimes tempt deer despite the plant’s general resistance. However, compared to more delectable plants like hostas or roses, verbena is far down on the deer menu. Similarly, verbena is not a favorite of rabbits, likely due to the same reasons. It’s important to note that no plant is completely “deer-proof” – a starving deer will sample almost anything. But if you have deer pressure in your area, planting things like verbena, lavender, salvia, and other aromatic or textured plants can help reduce the damage in your garden overall. Many gardeners have success with verbena remaining untouched even when other plants are munched. In summary, it’s a good bet for a deer-resistant choice, but as always, results can vary with local wildlife behavior.
Interesting tips
- Name Origin: The name “verbena” comes from Latin, meaning a sacred plant or altar plant. In ancient Rome and other cultures, vervain (wild verbena) was considered a holy herb used in rituals and medicinally. This historical significance is why verbena has nicknames like “Holy Herb” and has folklore around it, even though today we mainly grow it for its beauty.
- Shear for More Cheer: To keep your verbena looking its best, shear the plants mid-season. Around mid-summer, use garden shears to trim the plant back by about 20-25%. This might temporarily make it look a bit sparse, but it stimulates a flush of fresh growth and a new wave of flowers. This tip is especially helpful for trailing annual verbena, which can get woody or sparse in the center as the season progresses. A good haircut will rejuvenate it for late summer and fall blooming.
- Trailing Groundcover: Low-growing verbena varieties make excellent groundcovers in sunny spots. They not only provide continuous color but also help suppress weeds by covering bare soil. Planting a drift of purple or pink trailing verbena at the front of a border or along a walkway can create a vibrant floral carpet. Just ensure decent drainage to prevent any rot since groundcovers can hold moisture around their stems if soil stays too wet.
- Lemon Verbena vs. Verbena: Don’t confuse lemon verbena with ornamental verbena flowers. Lemon verbena (Aloysia citrodora) is a different plant (a woody herb) grown for its intensely lemon-scented leaves used in teas and perfumes. It shares a family connection with verbena and a similar name, but it looks and behaves differently – it grows into a shrub and has small white flowers that are not showy. Also, as noted, lemon verbena leaves, while great for humans in tea, can be mildly toxic to pets, whereas ornamental verbenas are safer.
- Pollinator Paradise: If you love butterflies, include verbena in your garden. Verbena bonariensis in particular is a butterfly favorite – its tall, slim stems sway in the breeze, and multiple butterflies can often be seen feeding on one plant at once. Hummingbirds also enjoy verbena’s nectar. For best results, plant verbena in groups so it’s easier for pollinators to locate. This not only provides a bigger target for flying visitors but also creates a stunning mass of color for you to enjoy.