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Geranium
Geranium is a diverse genus of flowering plants known for their attractive blooms and dependable garden performance. Often referred to as cranesbills, true geraniums are perennial in nature, while the common red flowers seen in summer planters are typically Pelargonium (often called geraniums in gardening). Geraniums are cherished for their long flowering season and versatility in landscapes. They produce blossoms in a range of colors including pink, purple, white flowers, and even vibrant magenta tones. A few cultivars are famed for their striking blue flowers, a relatively uncommon color among garden plants. These plants thrive in temperate regions worldwide and have become a staple in gardens due to their hardiness, ease of care, and ability to bloom from late spring through fall. As a group, geraniums offer gardeners a reliable splash of color and foliage texture, making them popular in many types of flowers guides and collections, from cottage gardens to formal borders.
🌱 Taxonomy and origin
Botanically, geraniums belong to the family Geraniaceae. The genus Geranium comprises over 400 species of annuals, biennials, and perennials native to temperate zones across the globe, with a high diversity in the Mediterranean region. The name “geranium” comes from the Greek geranos meaning “crane,” alluding to the crane-like beak of its seed pods (hence the nickname ‘cranesbill’). It is important to note that the plants commonly called geraniums in horticulture (especially the ones with bright pink flowers or red blooms used in window boxes) are actually from a related genus, Pelargonium. This confusion dates back to the 18th century when both types were classified together. True hardy geraniums (cranesbills) typically originate from Europe, Asia, and the Americas, often inhabiting woodlands, meadows, and mountainous regions. Meanwhile, the tender pelargoniums (garden geraniums) hail from South Africa and were introduced to Europe in the 1600s. Despite the taxonomic distinction, both groups share family traits such as five-petaled flowers and palmately lobed leaves. Gardeners value the genus Geranium for its cold tolerance and perennial nature, whereas Pelargonium geraniums are appreciated for their showy, tropical blooms. Together, they have a rich history in cultivation, adapting from wild origins to become beloved ornamental plants around the world.
🌸 Bloom time
Geraniums are celebrated for a lengthy blooming period that can span multiple seasons. Many hardy geranium species and hybrids begin flowering in late spring (around May in temperate climates) and continue producing blooms through the summer. With proper care, some varieties will persist into early autumn, offering color well beyond the peak of many other perennials. Deadheading or shearing back spent blooms can encourage certain geraniums to rebloom later in the season, extending their display. For instance, a mid-summer pruning often prompts a fresh flush of flowers that can last into fall. The exact bloom time can vary by species: some wild geraniums bloom primarily in spring, while modern cultivars like Geranium ‘Rozanne’ are known to flower nonstop from June until the first frost. In essence, geraniums fill the gap between spring bulbs such as tulips (which finish early) and later summer flowers like phlox, ensuring continuous garden interest. Their long bloom time – especially when compared to the short-lived blossoms of plants like peonies – makes geraniums especially valuable in ornamental gardening.
📏 Height and spread
The size of geranium plants can range widely depending on the species or cultivar. Dwarf and groundcover geranium varieties may reach only 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) in height, forming low mats ideal for edging or rock gardens. On the other end, larger geraniums can grow 2 to 3 feet tall (60 to 90 cm) with a similar or greater spread. Most commonly grown hardy geraniums form mounds about 12 to 24 inches tall, with a spread of 1 to 3 feet as they mature and clump outwards. These plants often have a mounding or sprawling habit supported by branching stems that can knit nicely among other plants. They can gently weave through neighboring plantings without becoming invasive. In a flower border, geraniums typically occupy the front to middle layers due to their moderate stature. They are shorter than towering blooms like sunflower, but taller than ground-hugging annuals. Many varieties have a tendency to spread via rhizomes or self-seeding, gradually increasing their clump size year after year. Gardeners appreciate that geraniums can cover ground and suppress weeds, yet they generally coexist well with larger plants. For example, a geranium clump can be planted under leggy roses or around the base of shrubs, where it will fill in bare spots with foliage and flowers. Overall, their height and spread make geraniums flexible contributors in design, whether as tidy border plants or as loose, charming fillers among a mix of pink flowers and other cottage garden favorites. For instance, a clump of purple or pink geraniums can look striking next to yellow flowers like coreopsis or daylilies, creating a pleasing color contrast.
☀️ Light
Geraniums prefer a location with ample sunlight for best flowering, though most species are adaptable to various light conditions. In general, full sun to partial shade is ideal. Full sun (at least 6 hours of direct light) will encourage prolific blooming and sturdy growth, provided the plants receive sufficient water. In hot climates or peak summer heat, geraniums often benefit from some afternoon shade to prevent leaf scorch and to keep the plants from excessive stress. Partial shade (about 4 to 6 hours of direct sun or filtered light) is well-tolerated by many hardy geraniums. In fact, some woodland species naturally thrive in dappled shade conditions. When grown in more shade than recommended, geraniums tend to produce fewer flowers and may stretch a bit in search of light, resulting in a looser habit. However, their foliage often remains attractive even on a plant that blooms sparsely in shade. A noteworthy point is that different varieties have slightly different light tolerances. For instance, cultivars with thicker, lighter-colored leaves can handle stronger sun, whereas those with very dark or delicate leaves might prefer partial shade. Overall, situating geraniums similarly to sun-loving herbs like lavender (i.e. plenty of morning or late-day sun) will usually yield the best results. Adequate light ensures a healthy, floriferous plant, while a bit of midday shade in very hot regions helps prolong the blooming period and keeps the foliage from wilting.
💧 Water
Geraniums have moderate water needs, and they perform best in soils that are kept evenly moist but never waterlogged. After planting a new geranium, regular watering is important until the plant establishes a strong root system. Once established, many hardy geraniums exhibit some drought tolerance and can get by on rainfall and the occasional deep watering, especially if grown in the ground with mulch around the base. However, in periods of extended drought or when grown in containers, geraniums will need more frequent watering. The key is to allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings to prevent overly soggy conditions that could lead to root rot. At the same time, try not to let the plants wilt severely, as chronic underwatering can reduce flowering and vigor. When watering, it’s advisable to aim at the base of the plant rather than overhead. Wetting the foliage, particularly in the evening, can encourage fungal issues such as mildew. Potted geraniums (often the Pelargonium types) may require daily watering in hot summer weather, since container soil dries out faster. By contrast, geraniums in the garden may only need supplemental water once or twice a week if there is no rain. Compared to thirstier flowering shrubs like hydrangea macrophylla, geraniums are relatively forgiving if you miss an occasional watering, but they do appreciate consistent moisture. Striking the right balance – not too dry and not too saturated – will keep geraniums lush, flowering, and free of water-related problems.
🌍 Soil and pH
One of the advantages of geraniums is their ability to grow in a variety of soils, as long as the drainage is good. They are not overly fussy about soil type. Geraniums can adapt to sandy loam, clay loam, or even rocky substrates, provided water does not pool for long periods around their roots. In terms of soil fertility, a moderately fertile soil rich in organic matter (like compost or leaf mold) supports healthy growth and flowering. These plants particularly enjoy humus-rich soil that stays evenly moist. Drainage is crucial. Heavy, waterlogged soil can cause root and stem rot. If your garden soil is dense clay, amending with compost to improve structure will benefit the geraniums. Regarding soil pH, geraniums are quite adaptable. They generally prefer a neutral to slightly acidic pH (around 6.0 to 7.0), but will tolerate somewhat alkaline soils too. Unlike plants such as camellia that demand an acidic pH range to avoid nutrient issues, geraniums usually do well without much pH-related fuss. Also, unlike hydrangea macrophylla which can dramatically change bloom color based on soil chemistry, a geranium’s bloom color is genetically determined and remains consistent regardless of slight pH fluctuations. Therefore, gardeners don’t typically need to adjust soil pH specifically for geraniums. Standard garden soil suits them fine. Simply ensure the soil is loose enough to drain well and has some organic content. A layer of mulch around the base of the plants can help retain soil moisture and keep roots cool. In summary, geraniums will flourish in any average garden soil that is moist but not swampy, making them easy to place alongside a wide range of other plants.
❄️ USDA hardiness
Hardy geraniums (the true Geranium genus) are perennials that can survive winter conditions in a broad range of climates. Many species and hybrids are cold-hardy down to USDA Zone 4, and some even to Zone 3, meaning they can withstand winter temperatures well below freezing. These perennial geraniums die back to the ground in winter and re-sprout from their roots or rhizomes in spring. Their ability to tolerate cold makes them suitable for gardens in regions with harsh winters, outperforming more tender perennials in those areas. On the upper end, most hardy geraniums handle summer heat up to about Zone 8 or 9, especially if given partial shade and sufficient moisture in hot periods. In very warm, humid zones (Zone 9 and above), a few hardy geraniums may struggle, preferring cooler nights.
In contrast, the pelargonium geraniums (the commonly cultivated annual “geraniums”) are much less cold-tolerant. These bedding geraniums are typically grown as annuals in temperate climates because they cannot survive frost (equivalent to roughly USDA Zone 10-11 for year-round growth). Gardeners in colder zones must treat pelargoniums like seasonal plants or bring them indoors over winter. For example, just as one might dig up and store tender calla lily bulbs or dahlia tubers before the frost, pelargonium geraniums can be lifted in fall or kept as houseplants to save them for the next year. Understanding this distinction in hardiness is key: hardy cranesbill geraniums will reliably return each year in cold climates, whereas the showy pot geraniums will perish in freezing weather unless protected. By selecting the appropriate geranium type for your zone (or employing overwintering techniques for tender types), gardeners in nearly any region can enjoy these flowers – from chilly northern gardens to mild southern landscapes.
🌼 Propagation and longevity
Geraniums are generally easy to propagate, and several methods can be used depending on the type and gardener’s preference. Division is a common technique for hardy perennial geraniums: every few years, mature clumps can be dug up in either spring or early autumn and split into sections. Each section, containing some stems and roots, can be replanted to start a new plant elsewhere or to reinvigorate an older clump. This not only multiplies your plants but also tends to rejuvenate geraniums that have become crowded or have a dead center over time. Many hardy geraniums respond well to division and will quickly reestablish, often flowering by the next season.
Another propagation method is stem cuttings. This is frequently done with pelargonium (annual geranium) varieties to carry them through winter or to share with other gardeners. Softwood cuttings taken in late spring or summer can root readily in a moist, well-drained growing medium. Even some hardy geraniums can be propagated from cuttings of healthy, non-flowering stems, though this is less common than division. Geraniums can also be grown from seed. Species geraniums and certain hybrids will set seed that can be collected. Sown indoors in late winter or direct-sown after frost, seeds will germinate and produce new plants, though typically those grown from seed may take a couple of years to reach blooming size. It’s not unusual to find self-sown baby geraniums around established plants, as the seed capsules of cranesbills can eject seeds a fair distance when ripe.
Regarding longevity, hardy geraniums are known to be long-lived perennials. A healthy clump can live for many years (often decades) in the garden, especially if divided periodically to refresh it. They do not have a fixed lifespan and will persist as long as conditions remain suitable. Pelargonium geraniums, being tender perennials, can also live for years if kept safe from frost. Indoors or in warm climates, a geranium in a pot can grow into a woody, shrub-like specimen over time. Many gardeners treat those as annuals outdoors but keep favorite varieties alive by overwintering cuttings or the whole plant indoors. In summary, whether through division, cuttings, or seeds, it’s quite feasible to propagate geraniums. Their capacity to come back year after year (for hardy types) or to be saved season to season (for tender types) speaks to their enduring presence in horticulture.
👃 Fragrance
Fragrance is not the foremost feature of most geranium flowers, as the blooms themselves typically have little scent. Unlike highly perfumed roses or sweet-smelling lavender, geranium blossoms are usually grown more for color than fragrance. However, geraniums bring fragrance into the garden in a different way: through their foliage. Many geranium (and especially Pelargonium) species have aromatic leaves. When the leaves are brushed against or crushed, they release distinctive scents owing to essential oils in the foliage. For example, Geranium macrorrhizum (bigroot geranium) is known for a strong resinous, herbal smell to its leaves, which some gardeners enjoy as a natural mosquito deterrent. More famously, certain Pelargonium cultivars are specifically grown as “scented geraniums.” These have been bred to bear leaves with fragrances mimicking other smells (rose, citrus, mint, apple, chocolate, and more). A well-known example is the rose-scented geranium (Pelargonium graveolens), whose leaves carry a rose-like perfume and are sometimes used in potpourri or to flavor desserts (such as cakes and jellies) by layering leaves with sugar to impart their essence. Citronella geranium (Pelargonium citrosum), another scented type, has lemony-tinged leaves that are marketed as natural insect repellents. While their effectiveness in repelling mosquitoes is limited, the fresh lemon fragrance is pleasant when you rub the leaves. In container plantings, these scented geraniums add an extra sensory dimension beyond visual appeal. To summarize, while one wouldn’t grow geraniums primarily for their bloom fragrance, the plant can contribute delightful aromas via its leaves. Gardeners often position scented-leaf geraniums along paths or patio containers where one can easily touch the foliage and release its fragrance.
⚠️ Toxicity and pet safety
Geraniums are considered mildly toxic to pets, including cats and dogs, so some caution is warranted if you have curious animals. The plants contain compounds like geraniol and linalool, which can cause irritation. If a dog or cat chews on or ingests a significant amount of geranium leaves or flowers, they may develop symptoms such as vomiting, reduced appetite, drooling, or lethargy. Usually these effects are not life-threatening and will resolve with time, but ingestion can make the pet quite uncomfortable. Skin contact with the plant’s sap might also lead to minor dermatitis in sensitive individuals or animals. Fortunately, most pets tend to find geraniums unpalatable due to the bitter taste and strong leaf aroma, so serious poisonings are rare. Nonetheless, it is best to keep all houseplants or garden plants, including geraniums, out of reach of pets known to nibble on greenery. Comparatively, geraniums are far less toxic than certain popular ornamental plants. For instance, true lilies can be deadly to cats, and even calla lily or daffodil ingestion can cause severe reactions. Geranium toxicity is relatively mild in contrast, but it is officially listed as toxic by veterinarians and animal poison control organizations. If a pet shows severe symptoms after eating geraniums (or any plant), it’s wise to consult a veterinarian. For gardeners, wearing gloves and long sleeves when pruning geraniums is a good practice if you have sensitive skin, as the sap may cause slight irritation. In summary, while geraniums add beauty, pet owners should be aware of their mild toxicity and discourage pets from snacking on them.
🌿 Vase life
Geraniums are not among the longest-lasting cut flowers, but they can still be enjoyed in fresh arrangements under the right conditions. When we talk about using geraniums as cut flowers, we usually refer to the common pelargonium types, since hardy geranium (cranesbill) flowers are small, delicate, and tend to wilt quickly once cut. The showier zonal geraniums and ivy geraniums (Pelargonium) have thicker stems and clusters of brightly colored blossoms that hold up better as cuts. These can last approximately 5 to 7 days in a vase, and sometimes up to around 10 days with good care. To maximize vase life, it’s important to cut geranium stems in the cool of morning and immediately place them in water. Removing any leaves that will sit below the water line is crucial, as geranium foliage decays swiftly underwater and can foul the vase. Using a clean vase with fresh water (changed every couple of days) and adding floral preservative will help prevent bacteria build-up and feed the stems, thereby extending freshness. It’s worth noting that geranium stems may exude a sticky sap when cut. Trimming them at an angle and quickly putting them in water helps minimize this issue. In mixed bouquets, geranium blooms – or even just their scented leaves – can add a nice touch of texture and fragrance. While geranium flowers might not last as long as some robust cuts, their vibrant colors and the abundance of blossoms in summer make them a charming, if somewhat short-lived, choice for casual arrangements. For the longest enjoyment, keep geranium arrangements away from direct sun and heat, similar to how you’d treat cut roses or tulips. In many cases, even if the flowers fade sooner, the cut stems of scented geranium foliage can continue to lend a refreshing scent and may even start rooting in the water (a testament to the plant’s resilience).
🐛 Pests and diseases
Geraniums are generally hardy and resistant to many common pests and diseases, which is one reason they are considered easy-care plants. However, they are not entirely trouble-free. Among insect pests, aphids are occasionally seen on new growth or flower buds, sucking sap and potentially distorting the tips. These can be washed off with water or treated with insecticidal soap if they become numerous. Whiteflies and spider mites might target pelargonium geraniums, especially when those are grown indoors or in greenhouses. These tiny insects can reproduce quickly in warm, dry conditions, causing leaf yellowing or speckling. Regularly inspecting the undersides of leaves and keeping humidity in check can help prevent spider mite outbreaks. Caterpillars known as geranium budworms (also called tobacco budworms) are a notable pest. These caterpillars chew into flower buds of geraniums (and petunias), causing holes in buds or flowers that fail to open. Gardeners should look out for small green or brown worms if geranium buds are mysteriously damaged, and hand-pick them or use appropriate organic insect controls if necessary.
On the disease side, geraniums can be susceptible to a few fungal issues. In humid or poorly ventilated situations, powdery mildew may appear as a white powdery coating on leaves, particularly on some hardy geranium varieties later in summer. Good spacing, air circulation, and avoiding overhead watering help minimize this. Another disease, geranium rust, affects primarily pelargoniums (zonal geraniums) and shows up as rusty-orange pustules on the underside of leaves. It can cause yellow spots and leaf drop. Removing affected leaves and applying a fungicide can manage rust if it appears. Botrytis (gray mold) might develop on spent blooms or decaying foliage in overly damp conditions, so keeping the area clean of fallen petals and trimming off any rot is wise. Most hardy geraniums, however, are quite disease-resistant and not prone to serious problems in the landscape. They are also typically not appealing to deer or rabbits, likely due to the aromatic leaves. This is a boon for gardeners in areas with browsing wildlife. Slugs or snails may nibble on young geranium leaves near the ground, but this is usually a minor issue. In summary, with basic preventive care (proper watering, cleanup of debris, and periodic monitoring for insects), geraniums will remain healthy. Compared to many other types of flowers in the garden, geraniums stand out for having relatively few pest or disease problems, contributing to their reputation as a dependable, low-maintenance plant.
FAQs
Are geraniums annuals or perennials?
Geraniums can be annual, biennial, or perennial depending on the type. True geraniums (genus Geranium, commonly called hardy geraniums or cranesbills) are perennials in temperate climates – they survive winter and return each year, particularly in USDA zones 3-9 for many species. In contrast, the plants popularly known as geraniums in pots and bedding displays are usually Pelargonium, which are tender perennials from warm climates (often treated as annuals). Those pelargoniums will not survive frost, so gardeners in cold regions grow them as annuals outdoors or keep them indoors over winter. In summary: hardy geraniums are perennial (they will come back every year in suitable zones), whereas common geranium bedding plants are perennial only in warm climates but are used as annuals elsewhere.
What is the difference between geraniums and pelargoniums?
The difference lies in their botanical classification and cold tolerance. Both geraniums and pelargoniums belong to the geranium family (Geraniaceae), but true geraniums (cranesbills) are a separate genus (Geranium) native mostly to temperate regions, whereas pelargoniums (often just called geraniums) are a different genus (Pelargonium) originating from South Africa. They were once grouped together historically, but were later separated due to clear differences: for example, geranium flowers are usually radially symmetrical with five similar petals, while pelargonium flowers are asymmetrical (typically with two upper petals different from the three lower petals). Hardy geraniums form mounded plants and survive winters in cold climates. Pelargoniums have a more shrubby or succulent stem and are not frost-hardy, thriving as houseplants or summer annuals in cooler areas. In gardening, hardy geraniums are used as perennial groundcovers or border plants, whereas pelargoniums are those classic balcony and bedding plants with big clusters of red, pink, or white blooms. Both are beautiful and often share the common name “geranium,” but they have different care requirements and appearances once you know the distinctions.
How do I overwinter geraniums?
Overwintering geraniums typically refers to saving Pelargonium (annual geranium) plants, since hardy geraniums can stay in the ground and survive winter in their appropriate zones. For pelargonium geraniums in cold climates, you have a few options: One method is to bring potted geraniums indoors before the first frost and grow them as houseplants in a sunny window over the winter. They may continue to put out a few flowers indoors if given enough light, or they may go semi-dormant and simply survive until spring. Another method is to take cuttings in late summer or early fall. Root these 3-4 inch stem cuttings in pots indoors. They will grow into small plants that can be set out in spring, essentially cloning your original plant. A more old-fashioned technique is to dig up the geranium before frost, shake off the soil, and store the plant bare-root in a cool, dry place (such as a basement or garage) in paper bags. Occasionally mist the roots to prevent desiccation. Then replant in spring. Hardy geraniums in the garden generally do not need special overwintering steps. You can simply cut back the dead foliage after a freeze and apply a layer of mulch if you live in the colder range of its hardiness. The plant should re-emerge from its roots in spring.
Do geraniums need full sun to bloom well?
Geraniums bloom best with ample sunlight, but many will still flower in partial sun. Ideally, most geranium varieties prefer full sun (about 6 hours of direct sunlight daily) to produce the most abundant blooms. In full sun, you’ll get sturdy plants and continuous flowering, provided you keep them watered. However, in very hot climates, intense all-day sun can be stressful, so geraniums often appreciate partial shade during the hottest part of the afternoon. Partial sun (around 4-6 hours of direct sun) can be sufficient, especially for hardy geraniums, and may even be preferable in hot regions. In more shaded conditions (for example, only 2-3 hours of sun or bright dappled light), a geranium will survive and its foliage will thrive, but it may flower sparsely or not at all if light is too low. If your geranium isn’t blooming well and it’s in heavy shade, consider moving it to a brighter spot. Conversely, if it’s in full sun but struggling (wilting or scorched leaves), try a location with a bit of afternoon shade. Finding the right balance of light in your particular climate will ensure your geranium delivers a good show of flowers.
Why are my geraniums not blooming?
If your geraniums are failing to bloom, several factors could be at play. The most common issue is insufficient sunlight. Geraniums that don’t get enough light will often produce more leaves at the expense of flowers. Ensure your plant is receiving at least a few hours of direct sun daily. Another factor could be overfeeding, especially with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. Geraniums actually prefer lean soil. Too much fertilizer can cause lush foliage growth but few blossoms. Try reducing feeding or switch to a balanced, bloom-boosting fertilizer with more phosphorus relative to nitrogen. Additionally, spent blooms that remain on the plant can inhibit further flowering, as energy goes into seed production. Regular deadheading (removing faded flowers) or, in the case of hardy geraniums, shearing the plant back after the first flush of bloom can encourage new buds. Heat and water stress can also impact blooming. Geraniums may pause flowering during extreme heat or drought conditions. Make sure the plants are watered adequately (but not overwatered), and give them a brief rest during very hot spells – they often resume blooming when cooler weather returns. Finally, age and pruning might play a role: an old pelargonium plant can become woody and flower less, which can be remedied by pruning to stimulate fresh growth, and very young geraniums (from recent cuttings or seed) might not flower heavily until they mature. By addressing these issues (light, nutrition, spent blooms, and stress factors), you can usually restore your geranium’s flowering performance.
Are geraniums used in weddings or bouquets?
Geraniums are not among the most common wedding flowers, but they can play a role in certain arrangements, especially for rustic or garden-themed celebrations. Florists usually favor blooms like roses, peonies, lilies, and other traditional choices for bridal bouquets and centerpieces. Geranium flowers themselves (particularly the hardy geranium types) are small and delicate, which makes them less suited as focal flowers in formal bouquets. However, the lush green leaves of geraniums, especially scented geranium (Pelargonium) foliage, are sometimes used as greenery in bouquets and arrangements to add texture and a pleasant fragrance. In potted form, blooming geraniums can serve as cheerful decorations for wedding entrances or garden-party style receptions. Their vibrant colors and classic charm can enhance outdoor wedding décor. While you might not see geranium blooms featured prominently in a wedding flowers guide, creative florists and DIY brides have occasionally incorporated them for a personal touch. Overall, geraniums are a bit unconventional for elegant weddings, but in the right setting they can contribute to a charming and memorable floral design.
Interesting tips
- Historical naming quirk: The confusion between “geraniums” and “pelargoniums” dates back to the 18th century. Botanist Carl Linnaeus originally grouped them in the same genus. It wasn’t until 1789 that Charles L’Héritier separated the South African types into the genus Pelargonium. This historical mix-up is why gardeners still call Pelargonium hybrids “geraniums” today, even though true geraniums (cranesbills) are different. Knowing this, you can impress fellow plant enthusiasts by identifying which “geranium” is which in a garden.
- Seed dispersal mechanism: Geraniums have a fascinating way of spreading their seeds. The common name cranesbill comes from the seed capsule’s long, beak-like structure. When the seed pod dries, it springs open suddenly, flinging seeds away from the parent plant. This can result in new volunteer geranium seedlings popping up nearby. Gardeners sometimes collect seeds before this explosive release if they want to control where new plants grow, or simply let nature do the work for a pleasantly scattered effect.
- Scented geranium uses: Scented geraniums (Pelargoniums) were beloved in Victorian times and continue to be valued for their fragrant leaves. People would place potted rose geraniums or lemon geraniums on windowsills and occasionally rub a leaf between their fingers for a burst of perfume. Today, the essential oils from rose-scented geranium and others are used in aromatherapy and natural cosmetics. In the kitchen, creative cooks use these plants too – for example, a small cutting of a lemon-scented geranium in a summer drink or a dessert can infuse a subtle citrus flavor, a trick that clever cooks employ to add an unexpected botanical note.
- Natural pest deterrent: The leaves of geraniums contain aromatic oils that can help deter certain pests. In fact, planting geraniums alongside other plants may offer some companion planting benefits. For example, some gardeners place geraniums near roses to help repel pests like Japanese beetles. Interestingly, if Japanese beetles do chew on geranium petals, a natural compound in the flowers can actually paralyze the beetles for a short time, making them easy prey for predators or allowing gardeners to dispose of them. While geraniums won’t eliminate garden pests, they can contribute to an eco-friendly pest management strategy in a small way.
- Award-winning varieties: A number of geranium cultivars have earned accolades in the horticultural world. For instance, Geranium ‘Rozanne’ (a hybrid cranesbill) was named the Royal Horticultural Society’s Plant of the Year in 2013, celebrated for its nonstop violet-blue blooms and vigorous growth. This variety can flower for months on end without deadheading. Such award-winners demonstrate the improvements breeders have achieved, offering gardeners exceptional geraniums that provide long-lasting color and require minimal fuss.
- Cultural symbolism: In the language of flowers, geraniums have carried various meanings. Victorians associated the geranium with folly or stupidity (possibly a jab at how common and easy to grow it was, making it a humble flower compared to prized orchids or roses). On a more positive note, geraniums also symbolize friendship and well-wishes in some cultures. They have been given as housewarming gifts to convey comfort and good health. This dual symbolism is a quirky footnote in floral history, reflecting how a single flower can have multiple interpretations over time.
- Longevity in the garden: Hardy geraniums are often described as “plant-and-forget” perennials. Once established, they can thrive for years with minimal care. Some gardeners have noted clumps of cranesbill geranium in old gardens that have persisted for decades, blooming reliably each year with little more than occasional trimming. This resilience makes them a great choice for low-maintenance or cottage gardens. If you happen to inherit a garden with flourishing geraniums, it’s likely they were planted by a gardener long before you – and they are still going strong.
- Geraniums indoors: While primarily known as outdoor plants, geraniums can also be grown indoors given the right conditions. Ivy geraniums (trailing types) and zonal geraniums do well in pots on sunny windowsills or sunrooms, sometimes blooming through the winter if they receive enough light. They prefer cool nights (around 50-60 °F), so an unheated room that stays just a bit cool can actually encourage bud formation. Their ability to adapt to indoor life means you can enjoy geranium blooms and fragrance year-round, not just in the summer garden.